Sintra-Cascais Natural Park

 

Yes, we climbed up there.

Today is dedicated to Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We visited the Castle of the Moors and the Pena National Palace.

Getting there was extremely easy!  Our trusty Lisbon Pass includes a free train ride to Sintra.  We got up early, took the Metro to the train station and the train to Sintra.  I used Google Maps to get around the park.  I recommend taking a power bank.  I needed to recharge twice.  The history was amazing!

To prepare us for the Camino, we didn’t take the bus, but actually walked up the mountain.  It was a 574 ft. climb, but the stretching out was critical for me.  I’m still sore from the muscle pull I suffered from on the first day.  The joke between Jill and I was that Google Fit only registered 3 Heart Points even though we walked all the way up to the top of the Moorish Castle!  I was huffing and puffing the whole way! Evidently, we didn’t storm the castle fast enough! 

We had lunch at the nice restaurant on the Pena National Palace.  It is authentic, delicious, and not expensive.

There are many more pictures in the Photo gallery.

Closed on Monday

One trick I learned as a naval aviator is that the best way to adjust to a new time zone is stay up as long as you can, go to sleep at correct local time, and get up the next day and get some sun.  Your body adjusts much faster if there is sun.

We discovered that one of the reasons the hostel is so inexpensive is that the free breakfast is not free for us.  Jill tried to get a cup of coffee for me, but that required spending 12 euros.  I told her that a cup of coffee sound terrible.  She looked at me in shock.  It seems that my body needs coffee to get through the routine day-to-day, but once I’m in “Adventure Mode”, I don’t need coffee.

I did wake up to a pulled muscle in my leg.  I pulled it hiking up the hills yesterday in the heat.  I doubled my electrolytes, took some Vitamin-I, and will muscle through it.  No time to rest!

Our goal today was to beat the heat and visit much of the things that we could before it became too hot.  We took the Metro to a stop close to the water and visit a museum or two.  In Lisbon, Mondays are a day off for many restaurants, museums and other sites.  Still, there is more than enough to see without going in.

We visited the Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
the Belém Tower,

and the Jerónimos Monastery.

Unfortunately, they were all closed on Mondays.  Fortunately, the Museu de Marinha was open and with the Lisboa Card, very inexpensive to visit.
One of the remarkable things about Portugal is that they would sail where others would not. While Spain, England and France would carve dragons, snakes and other mystical creatures on the bow of their ships, Portugal would carve their famous ship captains.  It also celebrated how they have survived through their alliances with other countries.  For example, they have had a long alliance with Great Britain called the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty that has lasted off an on since 1373!  Portugal is a strong partner in NATO.  Their small navy is leading the NATO mission to fight pirates.
Once it became too hot, we returned to our hotel and took a nap until it cooled off.  We spent the evening walking the Parque Eduardo VII which is right by our hotel.  One challenge we ran into was that many restaurants are closed on Mondays, and they seem to be open when they want to be open.  We walked all around looking for something for dinner.  I was hungry for pizza.  We ended up finding a place really close to our hotel that was open.  We ate up in our room and had a early night.  
Tomorrow we are getting up early to take the train to Sintra and spending the day there.  The train ride is free.

Awake for 34 Straight Hours!

 

We landed an hour early in Lisbon which was great!  We couldn’t check into our hotel until 2:00 p.m., but they are letting us keep our packs here while we sightsee.

The first task was purchasing the Lisboa Card right at the airport.  If you are going to spend any time in Lisbon, you will want this.  For a very reasonable price you get the following benefits:

  • Free use of the Metro, buses and the tram.
  • A guidebook and map of all the places you can see.
  • Free or heavily discounted entry into museums and other attractions.
  • Free train rides to Sintra and Cascais.
We took the Metro from the airport to a stop right by our hotel.  One thing I didn’t understand at first was that the sign on front of the Metro train had a number and the name of the final stop.  I thought that the number was the route number, much to my wife’s annoyance.  It is, in fact, the train number.
Our first stop was two fold.  First was to visit the Marquês de Pombal which was conveniently located right by the local McDonalds.  Jill and I have had a little joke between us to visit a McDonalds in all of our travels.  Our quest for this trip is to visit a McDonalds in Lisbon, Porto, Santiago and Madrid.
With that quest accomplished, we took the Metro to the Castelo de S. Jorge, an 11th Century Castle.  The hike to it had us pass through the small walk only markets.
The view from there was amazing!
By then, it was time to check in, take a shower, and recharge the phone.  Using Google Maps everywhere was sucking up the battery.
Our final quest was to find some dinner.  We took the Metro, but ended up taking the wrong exit.  That meant that we found ourselves walking the streets randomly.  Eventually, we found a restaurant that specialized in Portuguese delicacies.

Now fed and happy, time for some sleep!

To Lisbon!!!

The day is finally here.  A grand vacation to celebrate my wife and my 25th Anniversary!  This trip has been planned to have something for both of us.  The first part will be sightseeing in Lisbon and Porto.  We’ll stay in proper hotels.  The second part is thru-hiking the Portuguese Camino de Santiago, specifically the Central Route.

With that, my venerable ULA Catalyst is taken out of my backpacking closet.  Despite all the years, I can still smell the PCT on her.  Jill calls it a stink that won’t go away.  I call it the smell of victory.  She is total overkill for this hike.  I really thought of purchasing a new pack just for this journey, but then again, this pack has gone a long way with me.  She deserves this trip as well.

From a gear point of view, I’m only carrying clothes.  With the total weight about 15 pounds, I took the aluminum struts out.  I tried walking with it that way, but it really felt awkward, so I put them back in.  I am a bit concerned that airport security might have issues with them.  I guess I’ll take my chances.

I scheduled our flight out of Mitchell Field for a 6 p.m. flight.  That gives us plenty of time.  We’ll take the County Bus for the first time.  It is straight ride from our house.

The bus is on time.  Our flight is on time.  I don’t sleep on planes, so it is going to be a very long day.

  

Camino Portugues 2023

While my wife has been very supportive of my backpacking trips, most of my hiking is with her at my side.  She has a ULA Circuit, but the thought of hiking five days without bathing in more than a muddy river or going to the bathroom outside is completely and totally unappealing.  She is happy to go camping and sleeping in a tent, as long as it is at a campground with a shower.  Better yet for her is to hike all day and return to a hotel room or an AirBnB.

This is the year of our 25th Anniversary.  We want to celebrate it with a big trip.  How can we compromise when our definitions of “big trip” our obviously different?  We hike a trail with a hostel at the end of every day!  Fortunately, there is the perfect trail, the Way of St. James the Camino de Santiago.  It is the oldest thru-hike in the world.

 Unlike a trail like the PCT, the AT, or the CDT, there isn’t a single Camino de Santiago.  In fact, there are trails throughout Europe that eventually take you there.  That allows you to customize how one enjoys the hike.  They all end at Santiago de Compostela.  The question is where to start.

The most common is the Camino Frances which starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and spans 422.5 miles.  Normally, that takes roughly thirty-two days.  Unfortunately, we cannot take off that long from work.  However, there are other ways to go.  We have selected the Camino Portugues starting in Tui.  It should take roughly ten days.  However, as a backup plan, we can also do the Camino Portugues Costal starting in Vigo.  That thru-hike meets the 100 km requirement to be considered a thru-hike and will only take five days.

The best part of this hike is that every night we will walk to a town and stay at either a hotel or an Albergues, a hostel for pilgrims, so it meets my wife’s requirements for a thru-hike.

Obviously, the gear situation is quite different.  I don’t need a sleeping pad, tent, stove, or water treatment.  My water carries are from water fountain to water fountain.  My food carries are snacks to get me through the day as will stop at a café for lunch.  On the other hand, I’ll have to carry some town clothes and put on deodorant of all things.  Still, it is a small price to pay to thru-hike with my wife.  

Day 10: Extraction

 

Location: Finland, MN (Mile 122.4)

Total Distance: 6.2 Miles

I woke up in the middle of the night.  I ate a ton of carbs and drank two liters of water over dinner.  I went to urinate, and it was extremely painful to do so.  Double-Whammy.  I slept in a bit to see if the situation changed.  It did not.  I texted Harriet that I needed a pickup.  She said she would be in Finland at 2:00 p.m.  I hiked in slowly and sat at the local community center.  Harriet was on time and took me to my vehicle and I drove home.

I’m going to spend a moment an focus on what went wrong.

Day 9: Maximum Brutality

Location: Section 13 Camp (116.2)
Distance: 16.0 miles
Achievements: Mount Trudee, The Drainpipe, The Lime Squeezer, Sawmill Dome

Reading this blog, you may notice two things.  First, I intentionally keep it raw.  I’m typing on my phone’s little keyboard at the end of the day.  I’m exhausted.  Second, it is filled with numbers.  The reason for the numbers is pretty simple.  I use math to keep myself safe.
When I woke up this morning, I had one and a half day’s worth of food.  The next two campsites at roughly 10.0 and 16.0 miles are both dry.  If I decide to camp ten miles from now, the closest water source requires me to carry water for two days, six miles.  Or, I can hike 16.0 miles with a water source one mile before it.  I need one liter of water per five miles.  I need three liters of water if I’m camping for the night.  I’m much better off aiming for a sixteen mile day where I’m carrying just two liters of water for most of the day.  If I stop at ten miles, I will need to carry four liters of water for six of those ten miles.
The hike today was nothing short of brutal.  The hike started late due to an unexpected thunderstorm.  Then the temperature increased to over 80° with 80% humidity.  The whole hike was one climb after another, including two mountains, Trudee and Sawmill.
The cherry on top was the last mile.  It included 600 feet of climb, plus some bouldering.  I was so tired and thirsty that I decided to carry four liters up to camp.  It sucked, but I knew I was really dehydrated.
Throughout the day, I was struggling with some severe chaffing.  Between the rain and the high humidity, I was wet all day.  Eventually, every step was painful, but I pushed through, but it was slowing me down.  I found myself about four miles out with just a half of a liter of water.  I stopped, rested, and prepared for a big push.  I reached the water source a mile before camp at 7:00 p.m.
Seriously dehydrated, I filtered four liters and powered through the final climb.  One mile, 600 feet, at the top, bouldering to the campsite.  It was getting dark.  There was my new friend Andy.  We talked for a bit as I cooked and ate.  Andy chooses to go stove-less.  It certainly saves you from long water carries.
After eating, I tried to stand up.  My clothing was sticking to my body and peeling it off my body was quite painful.  I put up my tent and started to prepare to sleep.  As I was getting ready, I discovered that the chaffing was now blisters.  The path in front was clear.  I was going to be going into town the next day and spending some time to recover.

Day 8: Celebrating 100 Miles

Location: Bear Lake Camp (100.3 miles)
Distance: (12.0 miles)
Achievements: 100 Miles

When I initially talked with Harriet, she said that I would be surprised by the difficulty.  Talking to southbounders, they said they averaged 10 miles a day.  I’m here to confirm that this trail has been rough the past two days.
The PCT is notorious for its climbs.  The hike into Wrightwood is a 16 mile, no water, uphill climb.  There are all the mountain passes where I would spend half the day assending up the pass.  What could the SHT do to compare to that?
Turns out the 12 miles without more than a minute of flat space before more altitude change is really exhausting.
I reached Bear Lake at three, giving me a decent body of water so I can rinse out my clothes.  When I returned, there was another hiker camped with me.
He is from Madison, was a councilor at my children’s highschool for a while, and a really nice guy.
Better yet, he chooses to go stoveless so he can carry bourbon instead.  We talked until it was dark.  An awesome day.

Day 7: Increased Difficulty

Location: Faultline Ridge Camp (88.3 miles)

Distance: 10.2 Miles

For different sections in the guidebook it says something like “Some hikers may find this challenging.”. Castle Danger was one area, but I crushed it.  The combination of Breadloaf Ridge, Split Rock, Christmas Tree Ridge and Faultline Ridge kicked my butt.  The goal was 15 miles.  I reached the Faultline Ridge Camp at 3:45. Looking at the map, I had one more massive climb to go.
The funny thing is that I probably have enough in the tank to do it, but I checked the guidebook.  The next couple of days it listed as the most challenging on the entire trail.  I decided to keep my reserves if things are going to be more challenging in the next couple of days.
Injury wise, I have a blister on the left side of my left foot.  It is annoying, but taped.
Although my performance sucked, some of that had to do with the views.  I spent an hour in Split Rock taking pictures.  The views were much better 
My penalty for walking too slow is that I have to drink from here:

Day 6: Castle Danger and Gooseberry Falls

Location: Blueberry Hill (78.1)

Distance: 20.6 miles
Achievements: 10 By 10, Assaulted the Castle, Bonus Miles Averted, 20 Mile Day

I woke up at 4 a.m. with one chore to do — charge my phone.  I was not looking forward to the five mile road hike with a pack with five days of food.  It was a Sunday.  There was no chance anyone would be up.
I left the campground at 5:30.  I took about twenty steps on the road when a car pulled to the side and asked if I was looking for a ride!
The trail angel’s name was Laura, and she lived right by the trailhead.  She has just dropped off her son at work and was surprised to see a hiker so early.  So, I avoided that long road walk that doesn’t count.  That put a spring in my step all day.
On my today’s agenda was the ups-and-downs of Castle Danger.  I crushed it.  Honestly, it was nothing compared to other things I’ve done.  I claimed up Mike’s Rock, another place with a good view, but the fog was in.

From there I hiked to Gooseberry Falls and climbed down from fall to fall.

I made it to Blueberry Hill by 4:30, a very solid 20.6 mile day.  I’ve eaten dinner and I’m chilling for the rest of the day.