Trail Orthodoxy

What does it mean to successful hike the Pacific Crest Trail in one season?  Is that even possible?

The orthodox answer is to hike straight from Campo, California to Manning Park, British Columbia with footprints on the trail the whole way.  When I leave the trail, I always return to the exact point that I left.  I always hike the PCT and never deviate from it.

Unfortunately, to hike the actual 2650.1 miles is impossible.  There are sections of the trail that are closed and will remain closed.  For example, a fire near Idyllwild, California in 2013 damaged the trail.  By order, the trail is closed between miles 168.6 and 177.3.  There is a section in Southern California that has been closed since 2013 to protect an endangered mountain yellow-legged frog.

The forest fires in Oregon and Washington have closed significant portions.  In many cases, there was no alternate route to take.  One simply skipped that part.  The heavy snow in the Sierra Mountains in 2017 forced a majority of hikers to skip that section, continue north, and return later in the season when it was safer to hike.

To make matters more complicated, there are trails that split off the PCT that are ascetically more pleasing than the trail proper.  There is an alternative route that allows you to walk the rim of Crater Lake.  Do I skip that?

Finally, there are some additional alternative routes to avoid dangerous sections.  For example, there is an alternate road hike between miles 187 and 191 that allows me to avoid hiking Fuller Ridge during heavy snow and high winds.

So, what am I going to do?

My hike is my hike.  The trail is what is presented to me when I get there.  If a section is closed, but there is an official alternate route, and that route is safe, I will take that alternate.  I will monitor the weather when I’m in town.  If conditions are dangerous, I’ll stay in town an extra day or two.  Despite my best efforts, if a commonly unsafe section like Fuller Ridge is dangerous when I physically walk there, I’ll take the alternate.  If snow conditions in the Sierra Mountains are the same in 2018 as they were in 2017, I will consider flip-flopping.

I may be crazy, but I do not have a death wish.

That leaves the ascetically pleasing alternates.  I may have only this once chance to do this hike.  I will choose the best quality over orthodoxy.  I’m going to hike the rim of Crater Lake.  I’m going to see the best there is to see.

What I won’t do is skip a section because it is too hard.  If I have to flip-flop, but the clock runs out, I will not consider it complete until I hike that section.  However, if a section is closed, I’ll consider that section as not part of the trail.  I’m not going to wait until the endangered section is reopened to claim victory.

Does this mean that I will hike 2650.1 miles?  No probably not.  I’ll be short a few.  Will I say I completed it?  If I skip a section with the intention of returning, but do not return because I ran out of time?  No.  Otherwise yes.

But, you didn’t hike all 2650.1 miles!!!  How can you say you hiked the PCT if you didn’t hike all 2650.1 miles!?!

Sometimes in life you just have to say close enough.  Get over it.

 

 

Resupply Strategy in a Nutshell (as I understand it…)

The logistics of hiking the PCT are complicated. Fortunately, I’m not packing food for one really long hike. I’m really determining the logistics of a series of three-to-five day hikes. Just thirty of them in a row! Regardless, after a couple of days in the wild, I will reach a town. Some of them will be full-service. It will have everything I need including a gear store. Some of them will have just a gas station and a mini mart. Some of them will have no resupply options at all. Nearly the entire State of Washington has no resupply options.

Now, I could buy all my food in bulk at home and mail boxes to each resupply point. In theory, this would same me money, because I could buy in bulk. Costco is your friend The problem with this method is that eventually you will get tired of eating the same thing over and over again. Also, what do you do if you don’t finish?

Buying local is a better solution. However, not every town has a grocery store. Sometimes it is just a gas station. I’m not sure how many calories there are in a urinal mint.

So, I have been spending hours researching each and every town. I’m also using the Halfmile Anywhere 2017 Survey as a guide.  Based upon that survey there are thirteen towns were I will need to ship a box.  They are the following locations:

  1. Warner Springs (Desert)
  2. Kennedy Meadows South (Sierra)
  3. Kennedy Meadows North (NorCal)
  4. Sierra City (NorCal)
  5. Belden (NorCal)
  6. Crater Lake/Mazama (Oregon)
  7. Shelter Cove (Oregon)
  8. Timberline Lodge (Oregon)
  9. Trout Lake (Washington)
  10. White Pass (Washington)
  11. Snoqualmie Pass (Washington)
  12. Stevens Pass/Skykomish (Washington)
  13. Stehekin (Washington)

It turns out that my very first resupply point after about five days is one of the towns on the list — Warner Springs.  So, before I leave, I will ship a single box to Warner Springs.  That box will have four-days of food in it.  That may be overkill, because will stop at the Paradise Cafe for lunch and get a burger.  It is a rite of passage on the trail.

For Kennedy Meadows South (Yes, there are two towns with the same name in California), I will do a gear swap.  Before I can enter the Sierra Mountains, I will need a bear canister, an ice axe, micro-spikes for my shoes and a warmer base layer.  I will keep this heavier gear only as long as I need it.

For the Northern California towns, I will ship boxes myself.  I will ship a box from Tuolumne Meadows to Kennedy Meadows North.  From South Lake Tahoe, I will ship a box to Sierra City and Belden.

For Oregon I will use a similar strategy.  From Ashland, I will ship a box to Mazama and Shelter Cove.  From Bend, I will ship a box to Timberline Lodge.

That leaves Washington.  There are not many options there.  The most likely strategy there is full resupplies from home.  I’ll worry about that when I get there.

Using this strategy, I only have to pack one box before I leave.  That makes this trip much simpler.

Change in Footwear

I was completely settled on the Altra Lone Peak 3.0 trail shoes for my hike, but Altra has upgraded them to 3.5.  I tried ordering version 3.0 on-line, but they are discontinued.  So, I’ve ordered a version 3.5 and I have to say they are an improvement.

From a size and foot feel, they are the same.  What has changed is that there are now four points to connect your gaiters, they have improved the outer structure by reinforcing the skeleton, and they changed the ventilating fabric.

My Dirty Girl gaiters only have two connecting points, so the four point gaiter doesn’t help me.  The outer structure improvement will hopefully improve durability.  The biggest complaint about them on the trail is that you go through four or five pairs.  I didn’t have any issues like that with my 3.0’s and they have a good 400 miles on them.

The fabric change might be a big deal.  They are now using a fabric with smaller pores.  This should reduce the amount of sand and dust that gets in while still allowing the shoes to breathe.  Reducing the sand and dust will reduce one of the key ingredients to blisters.  On my six-day shakedown, my feet were always wet and muddy.  The 3.0 shoe did a great job of drying itself off as I walked.  We’ll see if the 3.5 version does just as well.

Skills, I Got Some

Last year was a pretty tough year for the PCT.  There were a number of emergency rescues on the trail and unfortunately a few thru-hikers died.  That has led to a discussion on survival skills.  One of the side effects of ultra-light hiking is that you do not need to be a manly mass of muscle to attempt it.  I certainly could not do it if I took my camping gear instead of my light weight backpacking gear.

So, what skills do I have verses what skills am I lacking?

As a small-town kid from Wisconsin, I spent much of my time outside.  I lit fires.  I made shelters.  I hunted and fished.  I’ve camped in the snow.  I hiked a good portion of the Ice Age Trail as well as the Superior Trail and the Boundary Waters.

As a young man, I was in the Boy Scouts until I was 16.  While I wasn’t an Eagle Scout, I had quite a few critical merit badges for this hike like, camping, first aid, hiking, life saving, weather and wilderness survival.  I still know my knots.  I can read a map and use a compass.

After high school, instead of going to college right away, I joined the Navy and was a Sonar Operator on the P-3 Orion aircraft.  Before I could hunt submarines, I needed to complete the training program which included Aircrew Candidate School and SERE school.  I also was Red Cross trauma first aid and CPR qualified, although it has been a long time since I renewed my certifications.

So, I have a good base of survival skills for this hike.  I’m also modest enough that I’ll avoid endangering myself too much.  I won’t walk the knife’s edge and take a selfie at the same time.  I won’t make a water crossing alone.  I’m modest enough to wait for others.

However, I’m still missing a few skills, some of which I will not be able to learn here.

The Desert

While many of my classmates are concerned about the snow, I’m more concerned about the desert.  I generally get 5 miles per liter of water when it is hot.  For the 43 mile stretch without a reliable water source, that means I’m going to have to carry about 10 liters if all I can get is 5 miles per liter.

The Sierra Mountains

I will have little training for high altitude backpacking.  It is a concern of mine that I might push myself too hard at 10,000 feet.  The thought of hiking one mile-per-hour is kind of scary.  I have watched videos on self-arrest, and I will take an ice-axe, but I have never done it.

Foot Care

The one part of my body I’m going to push the most is my feet.  I am hopeful that three years of aggressive hiking means my feet are strong enough to handle this, I feel like I do not know enough.  I’ve bought a book on foot care and I’ve been following what I have learned there by taping my toes and feet, but if anything is going to fail, it is my feet.

Moving Forward

I am in the process of updating my skills.  Having done two shakedown backpacking trips has given me quite a bit of confidence with my gear and what I’m capable to doing. I’m renewing my first aid and CPR certifications.  I’m learning how to be a better photographer.

For the desert, I’m going to take advantage of night hiking and sleeping during the day.  If I get up before the sun rises, take a siesta when it gets too hot, and hike until dark, I should still be able to get my miles in while avoiding the worst of the heat.

I’m not sure what I’m going to do about the Sierra Mountains.  I’ve considered buying a high altitude mask and start hiking with it, but they are expensive and probably overkill.  As water is plentiful, packing more food and taking my time is probably my best strategy.  Honestly, with 800 miles under my belt by then, my heart, legs and lungs should be very efficient.

I’ve watched videos on self arrest.  I have not found any courses here, so I’ll have to practice when I get there.

Feet?  Tape and stretching, tape and stretching.

Do I know enough to go?  Yes.  Do I know all I need to know? No.  What I don’t know, can I learn it when I get there?  Yes.

Some Thoughts on Water

My very first day of hiking on the PCT will be in an arid desert. There is water creek at mile 4.4 and possible water at mile 6.0. After that, there is no water until after a huge climb into Lake Merino at mile 21. Water is something I will have to prepare before I can drink it.

On the different Facebook pages for the 2018 hikers, there have been a number of discussion on which tool to use. I chose the best in class Sawyer Squeeze. I ordered my before I did my first training hike on the IAT in Taylor County. When it first arrived, I gathered some Milwaukee River water and ran it through it. It worked great.

However, I discovered a major limitation on my first shakedown. At my very first water stop, the source I found had quite a bit of stuff floating in it. To save weight, I did not bring anything to screen the water, nor the method to flush it. My Sawyer was degraded almost immediately. It took nearly 15 minutes to filter a liter. My initial attempts to flush it were unsuccessful.

On my second hike, I had the means of properly flushing it and it worked great.  I’ve seen some videos on using the sport cap from a Smart Water Bottle to flush the filter, but for now, I’ll bring the syringe.  I also designed a simple contraption to filter the bigger chunks before I start filtering.  I cut the top off a water bottle and using a bandana, I can significantly reduce the larger solid deposits in the water.  The bandana ties to my backpack.  The water bottle is slightly larger than a smart water bottle, to it takes no room in my pack and the extra weight is essentially nothing.

The big decision I have been mulling over is whether to take a backup method of purifying water.  The most likely way my Squeeze would fail is if it freezes.  I’ve slept with it in my pocket on freezing nights.  I have Aqua Mira drops as a backup.  However, they weigh three ounces.  As of now, I’ve decided to not take a backup.  Three ounces is three ounces.  In a worst case scenario, I would just drink the water.

The Ride to the Southern Terminus

Yesterday I sent an e-mail and filled out a form on Scout and Frodo’s website.  You need to do both.  They answered me today.  I now have a ride from the train station to the Southern Terminus with an overnight stop at their house.

I wanted to stay there for three main reasons.  First, they supply at cost a couple of items I will need for the trail that I don’t want to take on the trip down.  The biggest item is a gas canister for my stove.  Second, it is going to give me an opportunity to meet a couple of my fellow hikers leaving on the same day.  While we are all hiking our own hikes, for the first couple of days, these are the people I am going to walking and camping with.  Finally, it will give me a chance to take some items on the trip down and mail them home before I leave for the trail.  I will do one last shakedown, so some will be from my kit, but mostly it will be the clothes I wore for the train drive and my tablet and charger.  I will bring a prepaid box from the post office.

Most importantly, they do not accept donations, so it allows me to learn to accept kindness from strangers. I will not be successful without the support of complete strangers. What a weird concept!

Going on a Train Ride

I checked off another box on the logistics checklist. How am I going to get to San Diego? I am going to take a train. Taking the train is the perfect choice because it is going to force me to slow down. Flying there takes four hours or so. Taking a train takes two days!

So, I’ll board an Amtrak in Milwaukee, switch in Chicago, and relax and meditate until I reach San Diego. I also notified Scout and Frodo, so that on April 5th, I will look out for a van with a yellow pom-pom in the window. At their home I’ll switch everything over and try to go to sleep. I will fail to do so.

Then, in the wee hours of the morning on the 6th, I’ll pack up my gear and they will take me to the Southern Terminus. Pictures will be taken. Once the goodbyes are done, I will face north and take that first step. In my pack will be five days of food, a fresh canister of fuel and four to six liters of water depending upon conditions.

When I reach Hauser Canyon which is slightly more than 15 miles up trail, I will decide whether to camp there or continue the last five miles to Lake Morena and celebrate with dinner at the Oak Shore Grocery. There is no water at Hauser Canyon, so six liters seems about right.

That is it.  That is the plan.  Beyond that is all preparation.

Shakedown Hike Day 3

Today is a much shorter day.  I promised to take the kids to see Thor and we prefer to go to the matinee, so I will be ending my hike early today.

It is sleeting hard this morning, but the ground is warm enough that it is melting right away.  I pack everything inside my tent where I am dry.  I had put up my tent on top of a hill, so I had plenty of air movement and the condensation was limited.  I’ve learned from previous hikes to use my garbage compactor bag over my feet to keep that part dry.

I did a much better job of packing up.  I was ready to go in just fifteen minutes.  I unzip the tent, toss my pack outside, and in wet weather gear crawl out.  My tent is packed in mere moments, I count my stakes, and pack it all in my backpack.

I have a method for packing my backpack.  My quilt is on the bottom.  It makes the bottom of my pack softer and more comfortable.  On top is my tent.  If it is raining (or in this case sleeting) It is the first thing I can get to.  I hike down to the shelter were I meet my backpacking friend I made last night.

We eat, drink coffee, and I ask to take a picture of him.  I want to remember him, but not share him to the world without his permission.  I know his first name, but I do not know his last.  It isn’t important.  This is the type of friendships that I will have on the PCT.  I will meet someone just once and never see them again.  As we are all hiking the same trail, we all have something in common so friendships are created fast.  However, everyone is also hiking their own hike.  These friendships are not meant to last more than this moment.

He offers a hand to shake, but I have not showered in three days.  I offer an elbow.  He asks for a hug.  Hugs I can do.

I’m a bit stiffer today, but I warm up in due time.  The sleet stops.  I text the wife where to pick me up.  As I get closer, I send a text with a Google Map link so she can find me easily.  I reach the meeting point first.

Not a terribly long hike, but I put in two 18 mile days.  Still, it is a good nine miles.  I’m in good shape for the hike.  This proves that I can do it.  There is still work to do.  I want to loose another 18 pounds before I start, but with five months to go, there is no reason I cannot be successful.

Lessons Learned

I learn something every hike.  My feet held up well.  No blisters.  No pain from Plantar Fasciitis.  I lost no equipment.

  • The quit and sleeping pad are much more effective if I properly set them up.  That means using the straps and snaps.
  • I need to figure out what I’m going to do to correct my vision.  I prefer contacts when I’m hiking, however, they do require maintenance.  Glasses are easier.
  • Slow and steady really does win the race.  Hiking just to the point of sweating meant that I was able to hike for eight hours straight without getting tired.  I still had some gas in the tank.  Trying to muscle through with a 3.5 m.p.h. pace simply killed me.  Cruising at 3.0 m.p.h. was much more efficient.

Shakedown Hike Day 2

I woke up at 6:30 a.m., but it was still dark.  I waited until it was light enough to put on my contacts.  As I knew that it was going to get below freezing, I had my phone in one pocket of my jacket and my water filter in the other.  I unfortunately forgot about my contacts and when I opened the case, the solution had froze.  Fortunately, they were old, so I put on my spare set.

I got up and stretched.  I was expecting to be sore from the 18 miles the day before, but I was not!  I did my stretching exercises as I boiled water for coffee and ate two Cliff bars.  Shelter #2 is eight miles away.  Shelter #3 is 17 miles.  Shelter #4 is 22 miles.  Because of the early sunset, my only real goal is Shelter #3.

It took me an nearly an hour to get packed up.  I’m really going to need to improve that on the PCT.

The rest of the hike goes smoothly.  I make Shelter #2 by 11:30.  The sun came out and it was just warm enough to take off my jacket as long as I was out of the wind and in the sun.  I sat and ate my lunch there.  It was beautiful.

I hiked another three miles to a water source.  I ran into two day hikers there.  I filled up my water containers there as Shelter #3 is a dry, and I continued on.

I made Shelter #3 at about 4:30 p.m.  As I approached, I saw another backpacker crossing to the shelter.  Technically, you are supposed to reserve these campsites. I didn’t because I didn’t know how far I would go and it is late in the season.  Its freezing and it is raining.  You’d have to be mad to hike and camp in these conditions.

I had no real choice but to approach.  It was getting dark.  Hopefully, the other backpacker is cool. Turns out, he was.

He had reserved the site, so I paid him half.  We put up our tents and started to collect wood for a camp fire.  We ended up staying up to nearly 11:00 p.m talking.  It was a great time.

When I went back to my tent for the night, this time I properly set up the quilt.  Instead of using it like a blanket, I used the straps and attached it to my sleeping pad.  That made a huge difference!  I stayed much warmer.

My contacts?  In my jacket this time.

Total miles: 17.6.

Shakedown Hike Day 1

Now with my start date secured, the preparation truly begins.  The good news is that based upon the two PCT Class of 2018 groups on Facebook, I am well ahead of many of my fellow hikers.  I have been physically training now for two years and my entire kit has been purchased and is in my possession.

My gear has a base weight of 13 pounds, 11 ounces.  Ideally, I would section hike some of the PCT to get more experience with the ups-and-downs I will have to do, but that isn’t feasible.  I do have my local national trail, the Ice Age Trail.

My goal for this hike was three fold.  First, I would test my gear under some colder and wetter conditions.  Second, I am going to cook meals as though I bought them in a store instead of freeze dried backpacking food.  Finally, I want to put on some miles and test my legs.

The best place for me to do that is to drive up to where I work in West Bend and park my car there.  My office is just over a mile away from the IAT.  In this particular section of the IAT, I have limited options to lay my tent.  I can only camp at designated shelters.  In many ways that is good.  I’m going to have to hike at least 17 miles today.  I also have to battle the dark.  As it is late in the season, it does not get light until 7:00 a.m. and it turns dark by 5:30 p.m.

I stopped in my office for a quick bit, and I started to “Walk in a Relaxed Manner.”

My first shakedown hike back in August was up in Taylor County.  The conditions of that hike were rough.  I pushed myself too hard too quickly. I would hike 16 miles, but I was sweaty and pretty much destroyed.

I was given a book named Walk in a Relaxed Manner from my Pastor friend Ann.  It tells the story of the exploits of a 60-year-old nun hiking the Camino in northern Spain. She was told at the start of her hike by a wise old man to drink plenty of water and be relaxed as you walk.

I did not walk in a relaxed manner in Taylor County.  I’m committed to doing that today.  I’m going to hike just fast enough that I do not sweat.  The slower pace suits me much better.

I entered a park where they are doing construction.  One workman is trying but failing to start a cement cutting saw as his co-workers stands over him.  They stopped and look at me.  Without thinking as I pass them I say, “the saw won’t start until I’m back on the trail.”  I walk past confidently.  They keep on pulling the starter, but it wont start.

My foot hits the trail again.  The saw starts.  I hear one say “Whoa!” and the others chuckle.  They are going to have an interesting story to tell at lunch about the backpacker with the Jedi mind skills when it comes to machinery.

Strangely, I knew it was going to be that way.  The trail did not want my meditation to be interrupted.

I hiked until noon.  On the top of an esker, I found a bench and ate my lunch.  I rested for another fifteen minutes before I packed up and continued.  By two-thirty I reached the Designated Camping site.  It was a dry site that did not allow for a camp fire.  As it was early and couldn’t light a fire, I decided to continue to the next shelter.

I made it to Shelter #1 by four-thirty.  There was water nearby.  I put in a good 18 miles.  I could kept on going, but Shelter #2 was another eight miles away and I wouldn’t make it until after dark.  In less than 15 minutes I had my tent up, my bed made, and water boiling for dinner.

For dinner I had instant mashed potatoes and bacon.  For dessert, I mixed instant pudding mix and powdered milk so that I could make pudding by just adding cold water.  It was dark by six.  I sat and read until I was ready to fall asleep.  Because it was going to be cold, I was wearing my down jacket and thermal base layer.  In my pockets, I had my water filter, cell phone and spare battery.

I woke up once rather cold.  Cold air was getting into my quilt.  I got up in the middle the night, did some jumping jacks and climbed back into my tent and ate a Cliff Bar.  That warmed me up enough and I was good for the rest of the night.

Day #1.  18.2 miles.