Day 21: Retreat

Started: Mission Camp (240.0)
Ended: Big Bear Lake (250.0)
Total: 10.0 miles plus 6.0 bonus miles

Fishtank, Little John and I got up at five. Having eaten all our remaining food supplies, we had full tanks and felt much better. I had a spring in my step again. I felt like taking pictures again.

We made it to our evacuation point at mile 250 by 11:30. We hitched into Big Bear Lake. I looked pretty sweaty, and I smelled worse.

The white crusty stuff on my shirt? That is all the salt from my sweat!

We checked into our hotel and played Rock Paper Scissors to determine who would shower first. I purposely lost and put my chair in front of the air conditioner and drank ice water. Cold air on dry achy skin was so nice! Fishtank’s feet are absolutely destroyed. He has blisters on blisters.

When I peeled of my disgusting clothing, I was no worse for wear. My feet are unscathed. The washcloth, on the other hand, will never be used again. The EPA should declare it a Superfund site. Burning it with fire will not be enough.

Clean, Fishtank and I started the critical process of recovery. Calories! Delicious calories! As much as we could consume.

After checking in to our hotel, we showered. The washcloth will never be used again. The EPA will declare it a Superfund site and require it to be burned by fire.

Clean, Fishtank and I started the critical process of recovery. That meant calories, delicious calories.

No leftovers were taken home. It was all consumed at the table along with a pitcher of Mountain Dew. (Maybe a family sized cheezy garlic bread as well…)

We helped Little John by doing a complete shakedown and helping him plan a better resupply strategy.

I needed to make some gear changes, so I stopped off at the Big 5 Sporting Goods store in Big Bear Lake. Unfortunately, the zipper on my Outdoor Research Helium II broke. I wear it not only for rain, but also as a windbreaker. I bought a set of Foggtoggs to tide me over until I can find a proper solution.

I did a shakedown as well. I’ve also decided to eliminate the use of paper maps which I’m not using, so that also means I can send home my heavy compass. This will save me roughly half a pound of base weight. As I’m hiking in a group and we all have smartphones the likelihood of all of us losing our smartphones is very unlikely, the trail is well-marked, and we are working together effectively as a team. I will still carry a small compass that’s attached to my backpack, and I have a compass on my phone as well, so I still have two compasses. I’m also shipping home my glasses. I have not warn them once, and I’m keeping multiple sets of thirty-day contacts. I was able to drop a pound of weight in the process.

A trail angel by the name of Scott came by and took the three of us to get our laundry done, so we didn’t have to ride the local bus, and he gave us a tour of the different entrance points that run near Big Bear Lake. No longer hungry and chores done we called it a night early.

Day 20: The Story of Little John

Started: Tent Site (230.9)
Ended: Mission Camp (239.9)
Total: 9.0 miles

We woke up at 4 a.m. and concluded that our only real option was to hike to the last good water source at Mission Camp, some nine miles ahead. It is at mile marker 240 and the normal Big Bear exit is mile 266. There is a 25 mile water carry in between. We have two days of food, maybe. I’m completely out of gas. There is no way that I can do a huge push.

We hiked in the dark, trying to follow the trail as best as we can. The Mission Creek area switches between gravel and marsh. As we advanced, I became tangled in some brush. I tripped over a log again. Fishtank was now very concerned about my health. I brushed it off.

After the sun came up we ran into John from Alabama. He is 50 years old and started two weeks before us. He is struggling, badly. I thought we were doing badly hiking nine to twelve miles a day. A good day for him is five. Mentally, he was out of it. His mood improved greatly when we offered to hike with him. He is a very big guy, so Fishtank named him Little John.

This area is a burned out section of the trail. At one time this was a beautiful section with plenty of shade. Now it is a wasteland of dead trees, rocks and charcoal. We stopped at was we thought was the last water hole at 238.7.

The three of us sat down and discussed how we were going to get out of this mess. We didn’t have any phone reception, but Fishtank has a satellite pager. Little John’s pack is overstuffed with food, and that alleviated any immediate food concerns. Fishtank contacted a local trail angel. They recommended that we bail at mile 250 and hitch to Big Bear. With that, we had a plan. Turns out that people running out of food in this section is a very common problem.

We then discussed how to avoid getting into this problem in the future. We need to reformulate our strategy. First, we’re slow in the heat. The thought that I am going to do 16 miles a day is not realistic. We need more food. Second, I need to make sure we eat. When I’m hot, I drink, filling my stomach, so I’m not eating. While I have plenty of fat on me, it takes time and energy to convert it to calories. I’m burning calories faster than fat is converted. It is simple math. I’m not taking in enough calories and burning them to fast. Eventually, I hit the wall. Little John is bigger than me and has the same problem.

The only thing we can do is get to town, zero, do a properly resupply and consider this a learning lesson.

After things cooled off, we advanced to a nice campsite. As we started to set up camp, all these other hikers started coming up, including Candice. Many people we thought were in front of us. Turns out that what we thought was a failure on our part was a common problem even to hikers half our age. We got that going to for us!

It the process of this miserable day, I didn’t take a single picture.

We ate our last meals. Tomorrow we strike out for mile 250 or die trying.

Day 19: I’m Part of an Elite Club of Bobcat Survivors

Started: Whitewater Preserve (218.5)
Ended: Tent Site (230.9)
Total: 12.4 miles
Achievements: Bobcat Survivor

We slept in after our late hike the night before. I was still not 100%. Fishtank told me he felt the same. Unfortunately, getting up late meant dealing with the heat for the rest of the day. The good news is that this part of the trail has plenty of water.

I was pretty much walking in a daze. I lost the trail at one point, and tripped over a log with a very pointy branch. Somehow I managed to twist myself around it and avoided injury despite wearing a backpack. Fishtank watched the whole thing and was terrified. He kept bringing it up the rest of the day.

It look a long time to hike to a shaded tree at mile 226.2 where we rested and drank until the heat died down.

When we got back up, Fishtank yelled to me. He thought a fox ran between him and I. I’m normally in the lead and there was 30 yards between us. We both got a good look at what it was. It was a bobcat. It probably was trying to determine if it could take me in my weakened condition. Then it got a sniff of me and assumed I was already dead and spoiling.

We were only able to muster a mere twelve miles. That is going to take a toll on my already stressed food situation. We are struggling because we got up late and were fighting the heat. We concluded that the only way to get out of this mess was to get to camp early and get a good rest. Then we can get up and hike a good chunk in the cool morning air.

Day 18: The Worst Five Miles of the PCT

Started: Water Faucet (205.7)
Ended: Whitewater Preserve (218.5)
Total: 12.8 miles.

Do you want to see euphoria? I’ve never been so excited to find water. I used to be excited about beer or ice cream. Now I find joy in water. Pure joy is camping near a water source.

After the long hike yesterday, we knew we were going to have to take it easy. The Mesa Wind Farm is called the worst five miles on the PCT. With daily temperatures around 110° and a strong wind, any sweat evaporates immediately. The heat is complete and total, and it eats up any energy you have.

There isn’t much of a trail, just miles loose sand. Every step is soft and it feels like you need to take two steps just to move an inch. We eventually reached the I-10 underpass where there was a reward from some trail angels. There was ice cold soda and fresh fruit. Even though it was just 9:30, some experienced hikers advised us to just take shelter. We watched our fellow hikers flop down after hiking in the sun and heat. It felt pretty ridiculous to just be sitting there, but if we continued, we would consume a liter of water per mile or two. As the locals were waiting, we waited as well.

Candice, Jamie, Fishtank and I made a dancing video which you can find on Fishtank’s YouTube channel. It is pretty funny.

At about 4 p.m., we decided to make a go of it. It was no longer 110°, but merely 109°. Our ultimate goal was an oasis, the Whitewater Preserve, a hiker friendly place to camp. There was one water source along the way, the Mesa Wind Farm office, five miles away. The workers have built a shelter for us and leave water.

Although I was completely wrapped up like a Bedouin nomad, I hiked three miles, only to run completely out of gas. I had hit a wall. All I could do was eat to hopefully re-energize myself. The desert is beautiful, even as it tries to kill you.

Yesterday it seems that I spent my second wind just to get to water. You cannot just muscle yourself through this. I had no choice but to eat two days of food just to get to the Whitewater Preserve completely exhausted. That creates a new problem. I do not have enough food to reach our next stop in Big Bear. That is a problem for another day.

Once we reached the Whitewater Preserve at 10:30 p.m., I just laid down and fell asleep.

Day 17: I Cannot Be Stopped

Started: Campsite 187.5
Ended: Water Faucet 205.7
Total: 18.2 Miles
Achievements: Killer Bees, I’ve Been Hit, Rattle Snake Showdown, 200 Miles

Just a reminder of what I’m doing.

The Fishtank and I were moving at 6:00 a.m. to take advantage of the cool air. Due to my weak performance at high altitude the day before, we needed to hike 18 miles to our next water source. We both had slightly more than three liters each, and that was not enough. We hiked to where we intended to camp the night before and discovered that a trail angel had left fruit, snacks and most importantly, water! I drank a liter and filled two bottles. A rough day in the heat just became much easier. I had enough water (or so I thought…)

The next ten miles had some killer views.

Eventually, we reached our secondary goal, the 200 mile marker.

We found some shade and rested for a big push to the water source.

There were rumors of killer bees at mile 202. I can say with great confidence that the rumors are true. A swarm of bees surrounded me, especially around my face. Fortunately, my beard defended me. One bee stung me on my right thumb. I ran out of there, as they followed me for some distance.

The last couple of miles were tough. We were tired. The water we carried was now at body temperature. As we completed the last switchback, I was surprised by a rattlesnake. It hissed and shook it’s rattle. I screamed. Satisfied that scared the crap out of one last hiker, it slithered away.

I’m not sure how far we will hike tomorrow. We’re in the desert now, and it will be hot.

Day 16: Back On Trail (Finally)

Started: End of Closure (178.0)
Ended: Campsite (187.5)
Total: 9.5 miles, plus 6.5 bonus miles including a 4000 foot climb.

I woke up at 6:00 a.m., loaded up my gear and hung around the camp fire. Fishtank had electronics charging in the ranger’s office, and that didn’t open until 8:00 a.m. Getting out of Idylwild was going to be a chore. Basically, it is one the most difficult climbs up to far. Nine miles up for over 4,000 feet. Idylwild is at 5,000 feet already. Even the trail to get to the PCT was all uphill.

As I’m from Wisconsin, I’m not used to high altitude. It was going to be interesting to see how I do.

Once we got over 7,000 feet, I found myself breathing hard even though I wasn’t going fast. Eventually, there was nothing left in the tank. As Fishtank and I set up camp, our old friend Two Soles walked up. She is an older hiker who I have learned much from. It was good to see her.

Day 14: Still Healing / Bad Weather Coming

The back of my knee is improving, but the weather was absolutely terrible today. Snow, sleet and rain is a terrible combination to hike through without climbing a 10,000 foot mountain. I laid in my tent reading for most of the morning. I’m itching to go.

I received a text later in the afternoon. It was Fishtank. He finally caught up to me, so I met with his group for pizza. They asked me to join them, but they will be taking another zero. More time off cannot hurt.

When I was studying up on injuries I might suffer, blisters behind my knee was not an injury I expected to hold me up. Feet? Yes. Back? Yes. Water related illnesses? Yes. Chaffing and blistering behind the knees? Nope.

Day 13: A Zero

Today is a day of rest. I purchased a new pair of light weight hiking shorts. The old convertible hiking pants were thrown in the trash, but I kept the legs. I figure that if we have another freezing night, I could wear them for warmth. I have bought food for six days. I repaired some other gear with my needle and thread. I did my laundry. I’ve taken about four showers in the past two days.

However, my knees have not improved. There is a winter storm warning here. There will be snow in the mountains. That is not a big deal. It is the wind warnings. Gusts of 70 mph with those below freezing temperatures.

I have a couple of choices. I could hike on. I could zero again. I could take the Black Mountain Road alternate. Hiking on probably breaks my wife’s rule #1. I may not allow my ego to exceed my ability. I could zero again. I won’t stay in the hotel. It is too expensive. I could take a 15 mile road hike that avoids the whole mess. It would keep me on schedule, but cause me to miss some beautiful parts of the trail.

After hemming and hawing, I’ve decided to move to the campsite and zero there. I’ll need to buy a day worth of food, but there is a market along the way. It is the safest and best choice.

Day 12: A Gear Related Sidetrack

Started: Campsite 146.2
Ended: Idylwild 151.8
Total: 5.6 Miles plus 2 Bonus Miles

As an experienced Wisconsin backpacker, I was ready to handle the below freezing temperatures. The combination of a well placed shelter and wearing every single piece of clothing I had kept me quite comfortable. I woke to frost everywhere. My tent was icy. My quilt was icy. My beard was icy. The desert was icy. The sign was icy.

Seriously Icy, both the beard and sign.

When I woke up, the back of my knees were sore. When I touched it, I had blisters and it burned to the touch. I cleaned it with some wipes which royally sucked and put some ointment on it. There was nothing else I could do but carry on. The views were still awesome.

The cafe opened at 8 a.m., so I was in no rush. When I arrived, I was told that a trail angel would be there later who would be taking people to Idylwild. Now that I was able to see my injury, I concluded that a trip there would be the smarter choice.

I enjoyed breakfast with Sunshine. Sadly her section is done.

There are two ways to Idylwild. One is to hitch from the cafe at 151.8. The normal was is to hike to 179.4. The trail is closed from 168.6 to 179.4 due to a fire. There is an alternative route with road hikes but Brian and I could not understand the water situation. It seems that we needed to walk up to a mile off the alternative trail for water.

That just reinforced my decision to hitch into Idylwild. I cannot hike without a pair of shorts. It is going to take me a couple of days for my knees to heal. Hiking on will only make things worse. There is an outfitter in Idylwild.

I’m going to zero here. That was eleven straight days of hiking and I need to heal up for this next haul.