I woke up this morning and looked at the weather. A high in the mid-30’s and a low well below freezing. Our ride wasn’t able to return us to the trail until 11 a.m., so we were not in any rush. At breakfast I proposed that we remain in the condo until the weather improved. I’m from Wisconsin, and I don’t want to backpack in these conditions, especially in light weight gear. We are much better off staying warm and dry for $15 a night than struggling out in the cold and wet. The hot tub is nice as well.
We’ve been watching Facebook. People around us are hiding in bathrooms, calling for extraction from trail angels, and are miserable. One of the hikers I know who scaled Everest even called for an extraction, while we went to a theater to see the Avengers.
It is supposed to rain until 7 p.m. tomorrow, but it will be warmer. Then it will be in the mid-40’s. The day after will be sunny. The PCT is risky enough. There is no sense in compounding the danger when you have an option to wait a day.
My intent for this blog has been to keep it raw. I do not have anyone proof reading it. I write it at the end of the day, exhausted, sweaty, stinking and uncomfortable. I only have my phone, so I cannot edit or adjust photographs.
This is what hiking the trail is really like. There is a glamour to thru-hiking, but in reality, it is quite brutal. You make friends quickly, only to never see them again. Gear breaks and you just have to make do. Every step requires you to pay attention, but you can really hurt yourself. I find myself on a ridge inches from a 100 foot drop or more.
That being said, it is amazing. I can see the transfiguration in me after 300 miles. The way I look and feel is completely different than before I left. I am forced to make changes. All my senses have become acute. Despite the dangers, I feel calm.
So, I apologize if content isn’t perfect. I’m often too tired to fix it.
While I managed to get a good night of sleep yesterday with my makeshift bedding the night before, it did not work last night. I barely slept. In the middle of the night I tried to inflate my air mattress, but it didn’t even last five minutes. The patching kit is not designed to fix seams.
In the meantime, this is an opportunity to “Embrace The Suck!” This ain’t no trip to Disneyland. I’m hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.
Fortunately, there is a good outfitter in Wrightwood. I’m going to need some more R-Value as it is going to be cold.
We were on the trail by 6. As we were about to leave, Little John told me that Candice had camped next to him and left about 30 minutes ago. Candice, now called Mammoth, is the young woman who helped me out on day one with my leg cramps. As we needed to hike 19 miles so Scott, the trail angel we met in Big Bear, was going to host us, I decided to charge down the hill and catch up with her. She is young and fast, and she’s catching her stride. I might never see her again.
With Little John on my tail, I kicked it into overdrive. About two hours later, I caught up with her. We hiked together for a while and talked. She was as happy to see me as I was her, but she was not walking as briskly as she normally does. Honestly, I should not have been able to catch her so quickly.
She stopped to stretch and Little John and I advanced to a water source to filter and enjoy Second Breakfast. When she got to the water source she admitted that she has struggled with a pain in her hip, and she cannot lift that foot up without ever greater pain.
Chef, a hiker who had joined us, had some topical Vitamin-I for a similar injury. As I walked past Mammoth one last time, I could see the combination of pain and worry in her eyes. She helped me my first day. Now when she needs help, there is nothing I can do.
We hiked through terrain similar to areas I have struggled in the past. Hot, exposed, and thick sand, but the combination of hiker legs, better nutrition, and the promise of a hamburger and milkshake at the end made short work of the miles.
Scott picked us up. After we ate, he took us to a condo. We showered and spent a good hour in the clubhouse hot tub. The pullout bed was much more comfortable than a popped air mattress.
We will sleep in tomorrow and leave for the trail about 11.
Started: Big Bear Lake (266.0) Ended: Stealth Camp (280.0) Total: 14.0 Trail Miles, 5 Alternate Miles
I woke up in the middle of the night with my butt on the ground. My air mattress was no longer inflated. I had some issues with it before, but I assumed it had to do with the low temperatures at night. It was dark, so I couldn’t determine where the leak is.
I used my backpack as a temporary mattress with my camp seat for my hips. I finally fell asleep and woke up fine. I guess I’m sleeping on the ground for the next hitch.
We had a long no water carry of 17 miles. It also included an alternative trail avoiding a burnout area where arsenic has been found in the soil. The alternative trail was quite terrible to climb. It was designed for off road vehicles and consisted of rocks and other rubble. Little John has done a much better job and his morale has improved!
Once we completed the alternative trail the main trail was quite pleasant. We moved quickly, had nice breaks, and wonderful views.
We wanted to walk at least 15 miles today, however we ran into a really beautiful campsite. While our goal is to get to Canada, sometimes you just have to stop and smell the roses.
Little John, Fishtank, and I had a wonderful dinner, told jokes, and had time to get some chores done.
My chore was the find the hole in my air mattress. After blowing it up, twisting it, and listening (which is hard to do when the wind is blowing), I found the leak. It is in the seam. It is a critical failure. I use my patch kit to try to fix it, but I don’t expect it to work. In the meantime, I am borrowing a mattress. I can buy a new one in Wrightwood.
Candace, now named Mammoth camped with us later.
Tomorrow looks to be a pleasant day. The trail is almost all downhill. So we’re going to aim for 19 miles.
Started: Big Bear Lake (250.0) Ended: Big Bear Lake (266.0) Total: 16 miles.
I could not sleep last night. I longed to be back on the trail. The hotel was too quiet, even with the fan on. There was no sound of blowing wind. There was no sound of nature. The vortex of Big Bear Lake, as nice as it was, was not strong enough to trap me in town.
Our ride picked us up at 10 a.m. and our goal was to advance 16 miles to the point where most people reach Big Bear Lake. My pack was heavy with seven days of food, but I only needed to carry two liters of water.
Little John followed closely behind me. The first interesting location was a small zoo where animals are trained for Hollywood. I walked point, like I usually do, setting the pace. Somehow I missed the trail as it came of a short road hike, so we missed the zoo. Alas, I have no cool pictures of tigers and bears.
I told Little John that it is tradition in my family that when one is walking point and looses the trail, everyone else can ridicule them until they find the way back. Little John refused to pick on me.
Both the weather and the trail were nearly ideal for me, so we advanced quickly. As we reached the end, the trail opened, and we had one of the most amazing views yet!
We also reached the 10% completed point.
I will be much easier to sleep tonight. I’m exhausted. The wind is blowing hard and cold, but my sleeping quilt is nice and warm. I’m wearing all my clothes to stay warm. As we arrived late, we are going to “sleep in” until 6 a.m.
Fishtank, Little John, and I met in the hotel lobby at 8 a.m. to catch the bus into town so that we could begin the process of resupply. Before we began we ate at a local restaurant and I had a massive breakfast. Without a doubt I will eat about 10,000 calories before I leave.
During the breakfast I exclaimed that I am overjoyed that I burnt out hiking to Big Bear Lake, because I now know how far I can push, and what I need to do to make sure that never happens again. Looking in the mirror, I’ve lost at least 15 to 20 pounds since I’ve started and that is one base weight.
The plan is to return to mile to 250 and hike the portion that we missed. It takes the average hiker five days to get from Big Bear Lake to Wrightwood, so we will take six days of food to cover the missed portion, and we now have additional reserves to make sure that we never run out on trail again. Mashed potatoes are light.
What I bought…
After condensing it.
I am eating a combination of complex starches, protein, fat and good old-fashioned candy to get me over the hills. I will be cooking more and adding olive oil for additional fat and calories. While it is my intention to come back in my 20 year old body I don’t need to do it in the next month. Yes, this isn’t the healthiest food in the world, but it has a ton of calories, and that is what I need. There is a McDonald’s along the way as well.
When I trained for this hike I changed my diet focused more on losing weight. Now I need to focus in on completing the hike. That means more calories and more in the form of fat.
After we bought everything we returned to my room and broke it down into smaller portions for easier transport. We then went to Little John’s room and began the shakedown process.
In the end Little John’s pack is now a solid 9 lb lighter! Fishtank sent home another 4 pounds of gear. I’ve eliminated half a pound. We went to the post office and sent it all home.
We then took Little John to Big 5 Sporting Goods and help him purchase some of the equipment that he was missing, so now he has the proper amount of water capacity for the longer hikes without easy water supply. Little John was thinking of leaving the trail here, but he is now inspired, and he’s a better position to be successful.
I purchased a set of Frogg Toggs to replace my now broken outer shell. While some hikers swear that they are the ideal combination of water proof and cheapness, they seem mostly cheap for me. I wasn’t able to find a jacket I liked.
So with my pack ready to go, there is nothing left to do but chill and eat a pint of well-deserved Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia.
The thru-hiking diet. Eat all you want. Lose a lot of weight.
Started: Mission Camp (240.0) Ended: Big Bear Lake (250.0) Total: 10.0 miles plus 6.0 bonus miles
Fishtank, Little John and I got up at five. Having eaten all our remaining food supplies, we had full tanks and felt much better. I had a spring in my step again. I felt like taking pictures again.
We made it to our evacuation point at mile 250 by 11:30. We hitched into Big Bear Lake. I looked pretty sweaty, and I smelled worse.
The white crusty stuff on my shirt? That is all the salt from my sweat!
We checked into our hotel and played Rock Paper Scissors to determine who would shower first. I purposely lost and put my chair in front of the air conditioner and drank ice water. Cold air on dry achy skin was so nice! Fishtank’s feet are absolutely destroyed. He has blisters on blisters.
When I peeled of my disgusting clothing, I was no worse for wear. My feet are unscathed. The washcloth, on the other hand, will never be used again. The EPA should declare it a Superfund site. Burning it with fire will not be enough.
Clean, Fishtank and I started the critical process of recovery. Calories! Delicious calories! As much as we could consume.
After checking in to our hotel, we showered. The washcloth will never be used again. The EPA will declare it a Superfund site and require it to be burned by fire.
Clean, Fishtank and I started the critical process of recovery. That meant calories, delicious calories.
No leftovers were taken home. It was all consumed at the table along with a pitcher of Mountain Dew. (Maybe a family sized cheezy garlic bread as well…)
We helped Little John by doing a complete shakedown and helping him plan a better resupply strategy.
I needed to make some gear changes, so I stopped off at the Big 5 Sporting Goods store in Big Bear Lake. Unfortunately, the zipper on my Outdoor Research Helium II broke. I wear it not only for rain, but also as a windbreaker. I bought a set of Foggtoggs to tide me over until I can find a proper solution.
I did a shakedown as well. I’ve also decided to eliminate the use of paper maps which I’m not using, so that also means I can send home my heavy compass. This will save me roughly half a pound of base weight. As I’m hiking in a group and we all have smartphones the likelihood of all of us losing our smartphones is very unlikely, the trail is well-marked, and we are working together effectively as a team. I will still carry a small compass that’s attached to my backpack, and I have a compass on my phone as well, so I still have two compasses. I’m also shipping home my glasses. I have not warn them once, and I’m keeping multiple sets of thirty-day contacts. I was able to drop a pound of weight in the process.
A trail angel by the name of Scott came by and took the three of us to get our laundry done, so we didn’t have to ride the local bus, and he gave us a tour of the different entrance points that run near Big Bear Lake. No longer hungry and chores done we called it a night early.
Started: Tent Site (230.9) Ended: Mission Camp (239.9) Total: 9.0 miles
We woke up at 4 a.m. and concluded that our only real option was to hike to the last good water source at Mission Camp, some nine miles ahead. It is at mile marker 240 and the normal Big Bear exit is mile 266. There is a 25 mile water carry in between. We have two days of food, maybe. I’m completely out of gas. There is no way that I can do a huge push.
We hiked in the dark, trying to follow the trail as best as we can. The Mission Creek area switches between gravel and marsh. As we advanced, I became tangled in some brush. I tripped over a log again. Fishtank was now very concerned about my health. I brushed it off.
After the sun came up we ran into John from Alabama. He is 50 years old and started two weeks before us. He is struggling, badly. I thought we were doing badly hiking nine to twelve miles a day. A good day for him is five. Mentally, he was out of it. His mood improved greatly when we offered to hike with him. He is a very big guy, so Fishtank named him Little John.
This area is a burned out section of the trail. At one time this was a beautiful section with plenty of shade. Now it is a wasteland of dead trees, rocks and charcoal. We stopped at was we thought was the last water hole at 238.7.
The three of us sat down and discussed how we were going to get out of this mess. We didn’t have any phone reception, but Fishtank has a satellite pager. Little John’s pack is overstuffed with food, and that alleviated any immediate food concerns. Fishtank contacted a local trail angel. They recommended that we bail at mile 250 and hitch to Big Bear. With that, we had a plan. Turns out that people running out of food in this section is a very common problem.
We then discussed how to avoid getting into this problem in the future. We need to reformulate our strategy. First, we’re slow in the heat. The thought that I am going to do 16 miles a day is not realistic. We need more food. Second, I need to make sure we eat. When I’m hot, I drink, filling my stomach, so I’m not eating. While I have plenty of fat on me, it takes time and energy to convert it to calories. I’m burning calories faster than fat is converted. It is simple math. I’m not taking in enough calories and burning them to fast. Eventually, I hit the wall. Little John is bigger than me and has the same problem.
The only thing we can do is get to town, zero, do a properly resupply and consider this a learning lesson.
After things cooled off, we advanced to a nice campsite. As we started to set up camp, all these other hikers started coming up, including Candice. Many people we thought were in front of us. Turns out that what we thought was a failure on our part was a common problem even to hikers half our age. We got that going to for us!
It the process of this miserable day, I didn’t take a single picture.
We ate our last meals. Tomorrow we strike out for mile 250 or die trying.
Started: Whitewater Preserve (218.5) Ended: Tent Site (230.9) Total: 12.4 miles Achievements: Bobcat Survivor
We slept in after our late hike the night before. I was still not 100%. Fishtank told me he felt the same. Unfortunately, getting up late meant dealing with the heat for the rest of the day. The good news is that this part of the trail has plenty of water.
I was pretty much walking in a daze. I lost the trail at one point, and tripped over a log with a very pointy branch. Somehow I managed to twist myself around it and avoided injury despite wearing a backpack. Fishtank watched the whole thing and was terrified. He kept bringing it up the rest of the day.
It look a long time to hike to a shaded tree at mile 226.2 where we rested and drank until the heat died down.
When we got back up, Fishtank yelled to me. He thought a fox ran between him and I. I’m normally in the lead and there was 30 yards between us. We both got a good look at what it was. It was a bobcat. It probably was trying to determine if it could take me in my weakened condition. Then it got a sniff of me and assumed I was already dead and spoiling.
We were only able to muster a mere twelve miles. That is going to take a toll on my already stressed food situation. We are struggling because we got up late and were fighting the heat. We concluded that the only way to get out of this mess was to get to camp early and get a good rest. Then we can get up and hike a good chunk in the cool morning air.
Do you want to see euphoria? I’ve never been so excited to find water. I used to be excited about beer or ice cream. Now I find joy in water. Pure joy is camping near a water source.
After the long hike yesterday, we knew we were going to have to take it easy. The Mesa Wind Farm is called the worst five miles on the PCT. With daily temperatures around 110° and a strong wind, any sweat evaporates immediately. The heat is complete and total, and it eats up any energy you have.
There isn’t much of a trail, just miles loose sand. Every step is soft and it feels like you need to take two steps just to move an inch. We eventually reached the I-10 underpass where there was a reward from some trail angels. There was ice cold soda and fresh fruit. Even though it was just 9:30, some experienced hikers advised us to just take shelter. We watched our fellow hikers flop down after hiking in the sun and heat. It felt pretty ridiculous to just be sitting there, but if we continued, we would consume a liter of water per mile or two. As the locals were waiting, we waited as well.
Candice, Jamie, Fishtank and I made a dancing video which you can find on Fishtank’s YouTube channel. It is pretty funny.
At about 4 p.m., we decided to make a go of it. It was no longer 110°, but merely 109°. Our ultimate goal was an oasis, the Whitewater Preserve, a hiker friendly place to camp. There was one water source along the way, the Mesa Wind Farm office, five miles away. The workers have built a shelter for us and leave water.
Although I was completely wrapped up like a Bedouin nomad, I hiked three miles, only to run completely out of gas. I had hit a wall. All I could do was eat to hopefully re-energize myself. The desert is beautiful, even as it tries to kill you.
Yesterday it seems that I spent my second wind just to get to water. You cannot just muscle yourself through this. I had no choice but to eat two days of food just to get to the Whitewater Preserve completely exhausted. That creates a new problem. I do not have enough food to reach our next stop in Big Bear. That is a problem for another day.
Once we reached the Whitewater Preserve at 10:30 p.m., I just laid down and fell asleep.
