Day 17: I Cannot Be Stopped

Started: Campsite 187.5
Ended: Water Faucet 205.7
Total: 18.2 Miles
Achievements: Killer Bees, I’ve Been Hit, Rattle Snake Showdown, 200 Miles

Just a reminder of what I’m doing.

The Fishtank and I were moving at 6:00 a.m. to take advantage of the cool air. Due to my weak performance at high altitude the day before, we needed to hike 18 miles to our next water source. We both had slightly more than three liters each, and that was not enough. We hiked to where we intended to camp the night before and discovered that a trail angel had left fruit, snacks and most importantly, water! I drank a liter and filled two bottles. A rough day in the heat just became much easier. I had enough water (or so I thought…)

The next ten miles had some killer views.

Eventually, we reached our secondary goal, the 200 mile marker.

We found some shade and rested for a big push to the water source.

There were rumors of killer bees at mile 202. I can say with great confidence that the rumors are true. A swarm of bees surrounded me, especially around my face. Fortunately, my beard defended me. One bee stung me on my right thumb. I ran out of there, as they followed me for some distance.

The last couple of miles were tough. We were tired. The water we carried was now at body temperature. As we completed the last switchback, I was surprised by a rattlesnake. It hissed and shook it’s rattle. I screamed. Satisfied that scared the crap out of one last hiker, it slithered away.

I’m not sure how far we will hike tomorrow. We’re in the desert now, and it will be hot.

Day 16: Back On Trail (Finally)

Started: End of Closure (178.0)
Ended: Campsite (187.5)
Total: 9.5 miles, plus 6.5 bonus miles including a 4000 foot climb.

I woke up at 6:00 a.m., loaded up my gear and hung around the camp fire. Fishtank had electronics charging in the ranger’s office, and that didn’t open until 8:00 a.m. Getting out of Idylwild was going to be a chore. Basically, it is one the most difficult climbs up to far. Nine miles up for over 4,000 feet. Idylwild is at 5,000 feet already. Even the trail to get to the PCT was all uphill.

As I’m from Wisconsin, I’m not used to high altitude. It was going to be interesting to see how I do.

Once we got over 7,000 feet, I found myself breathing hard even though I wasn’t going fast. Eventually, there was nothing left in the tank. As Fishtank and I set up camp, our old friend Two Soles walked up. She is an older hiker who I have learned much from. It was good to see her.

Day 14: Still Healing / Bad Weather Coming

The back of my knee is improving, but the weather was absolutely terrible today. Snow, sleet and rain is a terrible combination to hike through without climbing a 10,000 foot mountain. I laid in my tent reading for most of the morning. I’m itching to go.

I received a text later in the afternoon. It was Fishtank. He finally caught up to me, so I met with his group for pizza. They asked me to join them, but they will be taking another zero. More time off cannot hurt.

When I was studying up on injuries I might suffer, blisters behind my knee was not an injury I expected to hold me up. Feet? Yes. Back? Yes. Water related illnesses? Yes. Chaffing and blistering behind the knees? Nope.

Day 13: A Zero

Today is a day of rest. I purchased a new pair of light weight hiking shorts. The old convertible hiking pants were thrown in the trash, but I kept the legs. I figure that if we have another freezing night, I could wear them for warmth. I have bought food for six days. I repaired some other gear with my needle and thread. I did my laundry. I’ve taken about four showers in the past two days.

However, my knees have not improved. There is a winter storm warning here. There will be snow in the mountains. That is not a big deal. It is the wind warnings. Gusts of 70 mph with those below freezing temperatures.

I have a couple of choices. I could hike on. I could zero again. I could take the Black Mountain Road alternate. Hiking on probably breaks my wife’s rule #1. I may not allow my ego to exceed my ability. I could zero again. I won’t stay in the hotel. It is too expensive. I could take a 15 mile road hike that avoids the whole mess. It would keep me on schedule, but cause me to miss some beautiful parts of the trail.

After hemming and hawing, I’ve decided to move to the campsite and zero there. I’ll need to buy a day worth of food, but there is a market along the way. It is the safest and best choice.

Day 12: A Gear Related Sidetrack

Started: Campsite 146.2
Ended: Idylwild 151.8
Total: 5.6 Miles plus 2 Bonus Miles

As an experienced Wisconsin backpacker, I was ready to handle the below freezing temperatures. The combination of a well placed shelter and wearing every single piece of clothing I had kept me quite comfortable. I woke to frost everywhere. My tent was icy. My quilt was icy. My beard was icy. The desert was icy. The sign was icy.

Seriously Icy, both the beard and sign.

When I woke up, the back of my knees were sore. When I touched it, I had blisters and it burned to the touch. I cleaned it with some wipes which royally sucked and put some ointment on it. There was nothing else I could do but carry on. The views were still awesome.

The cafe opened at 8 a.m., so I was in no rush. When I arrived, I was told that a trail angel would be there later who would be taking people to Idylwild. Now that I was able to see my injury, I concluded that a trip there would be the smarter choice.

I enjoyed breakfast with Sunshine. Sadly her section is done.

There are two ways to Idylwild. One is to hitch from the cafe at 151.8. The normal was is to hike to 179.4. The trail is closed from 168.6 to 179.4 due to a fire. There is an alternative route with road hikes but Brian and I could not understand the water situation. It seems that we needed to walk up to a mile off the alternative trail for water.

That just reinforced my decision to hitch into Idylwild. I cannot hike without a pair of shorts. It is going to take me a couple of days for my knees to heal. Hiking on will only make things worse. There is an outfitter in Idylwild.

I’m going to zero here. That was eleven straight days of hiking and I need to heal up for this next haul.

Day 11: Started Strong, Ended Meh

Started: Campsite 131.5
Ended: Campsite 146.3
Total: 14.8 miles
Achievements: Ten-By-Ten (2), Water Source that Makes You go — Hmmm…

I got up early to avoid the heat and said goodbye to Sunshine. The trail was mostly flat to start, so I was really moving. In the back of my mind, I was thinking about one of the best hamburgers on the entire PCT at the Paradise Valley Cafe while at the same time thinking about what Sunshine taught me the night before. Only walk as fast as I can carry on a conversation.

To get that hamburger required me to complete a 20 mile day. My final practice hikes in Wisconsin were back-to-back 18 mile days, so I was sure that I could complete a 20 mile day. I completed my second ever Ten-By-Ten. To do so in the heat made me sweat quite a bit, so I when through three liters of water.

This section is very dry and my only water source was this…

Yes, it was as gross on the inside as it looks on the outside. There was a dead lizard floating on its back in there. The water was tepid, green and gross, but I was thirsty and there were no decent options going forward. It was for moments like this that I brought an extra method to sanitize my water. It takes 30 minutes for the tablets to work, so I hiked another two miles by eleven and stopped for lunch.

While sitting in some shade, I ran into a mother / daughter team from Green Bay, Wisconsin. They were camping nearby me on day two and I failed to mention them. They told me two important things I did not know. First, the cafe closed at 3 p.m. on Monday. Second, the temperature was expected to drop below freezing tonight.

I ran into a mother / daughter team from Green Bay, Wisconsin who I ran into on day two (and failed to write about) They told me two important things I didn’t know. First, the cafe closed at 3 p.m. on Mondays. Second, the weather was expected to be below freezing tonight.

With that, I looked at the map. In another two-and-a-half miles there was a good place to camp with a decent water source before a long bit of uphill climbing. As I wasn’t going to make it in time, I was probably better off calling it a day there and get out of the heavy winds I was fighting. I found a great spot with some bushes to act as a wind block. It also had Internet.

I hiked the last bit and had camp set up by 3:30 p.m., just as the temperature started to drop. I crawled into my quilt and ate dinner. I my gear that could not freeze like my phone, battery, contacts, and water filter were sleeping in my quilt with me. With that, I had an early night. I seemed to have a bit of a sunburn behind my knees, but I’m doing well.

Day 10: Who Hired Escher?

Started: Campsite 115.4
Ended: Campsite 131.5
Total: 16.1 miles

As I last left you yesterday, I strategically placed myself at the base of a mountain so that I could hike it with fresh legs in the morning. I ate well both last night and this morning. I got up at five so I could begin before it became too hot. There is one thing I did not take into account. It seems the trail team contracted Escher to design this section.

I knew this was going to be a long uphill hike. I didn’t think it would be ten miles of unrelenting up. I could have left the atmosphere for the number of uphill steps I took. Every time I turned a corner, I was filled with hope that maybe I would have some flat trail, only to have my hopes dashed.

After six hours at it, I completed just nine miles. I was so hot and tired. I curled up around a boulder in some shade. There may have been some crying. I was not moving fast and the heat was sucking up all my energy.

Eventually, I reached Mike’s Place. It is a notorious resupply point and watering hole. It is styled in something you would see on an episode of the Walking Dead or Mad Max. The whole place screams hepatitis and bed bugs. They do maintain a water cache, so I left a donation. It seemed rather unholy, so despite wind warnings I raced up the ridge and pounded out another six miles after four p.m.

I found shelter in the bushes to protect me from the wind. About 8 p.m., 69 year old hiker Sunshine asked if she could camp next to me. I said sure, although I might snore.

She is an amazing section hiker. She carries a 1970’s external pack with a 19 pound base weight. With food, she’s carrying 23 pounds, not including water. She does this despite some back issues. Keep in mind that I have a 15 pound base weight.

We talked past hiker’s midnight about good works, religion, and the choices I’m making after this hike. She is wonderful person who is an example to everyone. I asked her if she thought I had what it took to finish this hike. She was honest and said no. I was doing it all wrong.

I responded, “all wrong?” I have a very light kit and I trained for the past two years. She explained that huffing and puffing up every hill will make this hike unbearable. Instead, I need to walk only as fast as I can carry a conversation. If I cannot walk and talk at the same time, I’m going too fast.

I’ve committed to taking her advice.

Day 9: I Leave My Friends Behind

Started: Eagle Rock (106.2)
Ended: Campsite (115.4)
Total: 9.2 Trail + 4 Bonus miles

I woke up just before sunrise. There was no rush getting up. I need to pick up my resupply box at the Warner Springs Post Office and it did not open until 9 a.m. and it was only three miles away.

Warner Springs has an excellent community center supporting PCT hikers. I walked there first and signed in. In the back there are bucket showers and a sink to do laundry. Instead of picking up my box, I cleaned up first. Once again I strolled around town in my 1.2 ounce laundry shorts. I’m a thru hiker now and I just don’t care.

No. I will not post a selfie of me in them.

While my laundry dried, I skipped the shuttle ride to the post office and walked the mile there and back.

After I returned to the community center, I went through what I had sent myself. It was a bit too much, so I put a bunch in the hiker box. I had ten days of coffee in there, but I traded it for electrolytes.

Yeah, I know it doesn’t make sense to me either. I used to love coffee less than a week ago.

I also packed a microwave meal in the box, so instead of eating in town, I cooked that.

It was decision time. Once my laundry dried, I could advance, or I could zero like everyone else. It was during this time I earned my trail name Young Buck.

Everyone has minor injuries like blisters, pulled muscles, sore IT Bands, and sore feet. I, on the other hand, am completely healthy. A three mile day will not get me to Canada. As I sat there thinking, this is day eight and I’ve hiked just 109 miles. When I sat up late at night thinking about this hike, I figured I would be here day five or six. I intended to just hike past Julian. Here it is day eight. Now people are taking about the pancake breakfast in the morning. There is only one thing to do. Hike on.

So, I said goodbye to everyone and pushed on. I hiked six miles to the base of a large climb with plenty of flowing water. I am alone at this oasis in the desert. I set up camp and forced myself to eat. I’m still more thirsty than hungry. With some daylight left and all alone, I searched for the lesson I was sent here to learn.

By me there are two trees. One is small and homely. It doesn’t tower over everything here, but it is so remarkable. It is growing from underneath a boulder! How it is possible, I do not know, for the rock that covered it, blocked both the rain and the sun. Despite this obstacle, not only did it reach the sky, but it cracked the rock.

I turned around and there was a tall but very dead tree. It’s roots reached the flowing water and at one time it was the biggest tree here. It stands, but its branches are bare. I suspect that the tree growing from the boulder used to look at the once mighty tree and wished it was as tall and beautiful. Maybe it still does. Does it know that it thrives?

Does the now dead tree realize that it is no longer going to grow leaves? Maybe it refuses to fall because it believes it will grow again even though it already has full access to the sun and roots that have plenty of water. It would be better for it to fall and become the soil for a new tree.

Tomorrow I’ll get up early and attack this.

With that, I fell asleep to the sound of flowing water.