Day 8: Zero in Hiawassee

Total Miles: Zero / Four Bonus
It was a very restful day, just the four of us.  The hotel had a nice breakfast.  We returned to the room, piled out our dirty clothes and did a load.
While we waited we did a complete shakedown of his pack.  He had a gallon bag of Vitamin-I.  I’m serious.  A gallon ziplock of Ibuprofen.  He had a nice plastic case for his stove.  He sent probably close to ten pounds to the hiker box.
One piece of gear that wasn’t working for him was his sleeping bag.  There is an outfitter here.  Once the laundry was done, we went there.  He replaced it with a new light weight down filled 15 degree bag.  He’ll be warm and more comfortable hiking with his pack much lighter.
I had a sad gear loss.  The Luke’s Ultralight Laundry Shorts gave up their ghost.  They weighed a mere one ounce.  When we went to the outfitter, I bought I 2.1 ounce pillow to help me sleep.  I didn’t need one on the PCT, but I seem to now.
Then we did a grocery store run.  We’ll carry food for six days and get to Fontana, NC.
With the work done, I took a nice nap.
We ate in the hotel room and made our plan for tomorrow.  We’ll take the 11 a.m. shuttle back to Unicoi Gap.  We’ll hike six miles for the day.  If the pain is too much for Dunkeroo, he’ll know soon enough and can catch the 4 p.m. shuttle into town.
Between Blaze, John and I, he knows that there is no dishonor in stopping when you have a legitimate injury.  Continuing will only make it worse.
In our conversations, we discovered that all four of us played catcher in baseball.  I’ve preliminary named us the Backstop Boys.
We’ll talk until we fall asleep, early.

Day 7: Dunkeroo Takes an Arrow to the Knee

Starting Point: Low Gap Shelter (43.0)

Ending Point: Unicoi Gap (52.7)

Total Miles: 9.7 miles
Steps: 29,249
Achievements: Blue Mountain
Woke up and was off by 8 a.m.  Our goal was to camp on the top of Rocky Mountain, over 11 miles away.  We met up with Blaze and John who have been hiking roughly the same pace as us.
Blaze is a retired paramedic and fireman from Connecticut.  John is a retired physical therapist.

They were only going to Unicoi Gap, so we weren’t likely to see them again.
Dunkeroo and my goal was to hike 11+ miles to get us close to Dick’s Pass on Friday.  There are thunderstorms expected, so it would be a good day to resupply and do laundry.  (Maybe shower, maybe not. jk)
As we were climbing down some boulders, Dunkeroo was really struggling.  He has some IT Band issues that John taped up for the easy price of a Dunkeroo. (A sugary treat that the One And Only Dunkeroo carries and is named after )
He told me he was fine and to pass so I did.
I kicked up the speed and hiked ahead.  Blaze also increased his pace.  I can feel my hiker legs kicking in.
I got to a trail junction and it seemed like a good time to rest and wait for everyone.  Blaze was first.  About ten minutes later John came.  Still no Dunkeroo.  Eventually Blaze went back to find him.  Alas, the pain was much worse.
Change of plans.  We’d hike the four miles to Unicoi Gap and take the shuttle into Haiwassee for a zero.  It was a long hike.  He did have the best search and rescue crew you could have — a physical therapist, a first responder, and a pastor.  Whatever would happen, he was covered.
Assessing the situation, it looks like Iliotibial band syndrome, the bane of thru hikers.  The question is it just sore and tired or an injury.
We checked in to a Holiday Inn Express, and in the hiker box I found a treking pole.  Dunkeroo only carried one.  It is a mismatch, but he has a pair now. We also picked up a knee brace.
I enjoyed my first the hamburger on trail.  It was excellent!  (So, a physical therapist, a paramedic and a pastor walked into a bar…)
He’ll spend the day RICE’ing (Rest, Ice, Compress, Elevate) it.  The injury often takes four to eight weeks to heal.  There is some swelling, but not a lot.  Hopefully, a brace, some Vitamin-I, and slowing down will make it tolerable.  Otherwise, he’s looking at 4-to-8 weeks off trail until it heals on its own.
It is a little early for a zero for me, but I enjoy Dunkeroo’s company.  Some rest will surely do me good.

Day 6: Let’s Climb Four Mountains

Starting Point: Neel’s Gap (31.3)
Ending Point: Low Gap Shelter (43.0)
Total Miles: 11.7 miles
Steps: 32,472
Achievements: Levelland Mountain, Wolf Laurel, Cowrock Mountain, Sheep Rock Top
We were woken up unexpectedly at 5 a.m. to the fire alarms going off.  There were ten of us in the room, nine men and one woman.  I looked over at Blaze, a retired firefighter.  He was sniffing the air and not panicking.  It was a false alarm.
It was extremely cold, so Dunkeroo and I didn’t leave until almost 8 a.m.  We said goodbye to Big Tuna.  He is a section hiker and his leave is ending.  I also wanted a picture of the tree at Neel’s Gap.  These are the shoes of those who have given up.

Our target for the day was ambitious.  11.7 miles, but also I included four large climbs.  After eating a whole pizza and two liters of Ginger Ale, I felt a spring in my step again.  The views were excellent for a change 

We had a great hiking day.  I didn’t struggle, even the last climb.

This camp seems to be filled with people who have hiked very little.  We’ll be moving on.  We’re looking at another 11 mile day.

Day 5: The March Up Blood Mountain!

Starting Point: Lance Creek (23.9)
Ending Point: Neel’s Gap (31.3)
Total Miles: 7.4 miles
Steps: 23,565
Achievements: Marched Up Blood Mountain
The night was cold and wet.  Although it was supposed to be sunny, it was still raining.  Anything I couldn’t afford to freeze slept with me.
The milage was short, just 7.4 miles, but it was almost all incline.  3,000′ in just five miles.  I spent the night before carbing up.  By 7:30, Jason (now Dunkeroo), and a young marine with the trail name Big Tuna were off.
Blood Mountain was a brutal climb.  The sun was blinding, but made no heat.  The wind blew, pulling you off course.  The wind-chill must have been about 10 degrees.  
The good news is that the pain in my quads was gone.  Two shorter days in a row helped.  I reached the peak just before noon.  Dunkeroo and Big Tuna yelled “Young Buck”!  They only beat me by 10 minutes, so I’m doing pretty well.  But, there was another surprise guest — Jolly.
How did he pass me?
He didn’t.  He stopped off at a hostel, and they recommended slackpacking (hiking without a backpack for speed) down Blood Mountain.  Yeah, that is the easy way to do it.  You don’t get an epic story doing that.
We made it to the Mountain Crossings Oufitter.  They have a bunk house for $35 a night and $8 for laundry.

I was thinking of taking a zero just to heal, but after the successful climb, we’ll just spend the night and be on the road.  I ate a whole pizza and two liters of Mr. Pibb.  A thru-hiker diet is awesome!
We have four days of food to go 38 miles to our next stop.  It’s going to be cold but sunny.

Day 4: How Many Miles Do You Get When the Fuel Light Is On?

Starting Point: Gooch Mountain Shelter (15.8)
Ending Point: Lance Creek (23.9)
Total Miles: 8.1 miles
Steps: 22,041
Achievements: Epic Trail Magic
Maybe I should have talked less and ate more.  Eating a whole sharing size M&M’s is completely appropriate for thru-hikers!
Just as the morning glow started there were the hissing sound of hikers opening the valves of their air mattresses.  The scramble to get up was on.  Jason is remarkably fast packer for a new hiker.  We got off early.
The day started with a brisk climb up Ramrock Mountain.  Okay, it wasn’t brisk.  It was a brutal slog.  It was still raining hard.  The trail was either kitchen sponge or walking on toothpaste.  Jason is also out gas.  Wally started later and passed us.  As he has a bear canister, he’ll hike on.  I’ll probably never see him again.  He is a stronger hiker right now.
We reached Woody Gap and saw some canopies!  Trail Magic!  Good trail Magic.  One canopy had chairs around a portable campfire.  They were making egg McMuffins. Cheese.  Bacon.  Coffee.  So Good.
Needless to say, there was a pleasant pileup.  I had a great conversation with a triple crowner Joyride 

He is supporting Snack Sized.

Soon there were 20 people.  Jayson and I looked at each other.  This was our chance to escape and snag on of the four campsites.

We huffed and we puffed and we climbed up the Big Cedar Ledges.  Alas, this epic view was in the clouds.  We did do a better job of resting.  We reached the Lance Creek campsite.  Only one spot was taken.
So, I’m chilling in my tent, eating M&M’s, carbing up to hike up Blood Mountain tomorrow.  Five miles 1,000 feet of climb.  We’ll get to Neel’s Gap, and take a zero.  Jayson knee hurts.  Nothing a shower, laundry, a pizza and some hamburgers cannot solve.

Day 3: Riding the Storm Out

Starting Point: Hawk Mountain Campsite (7.4)
Ending Point: Gooch Mountain Shelter (15.8)
Total Miles: 8.4 miles
Steps: 23,622
Achievements: Crammed Like a Stale Sardine
The news on trail was that the weather coming had become more severe and with lower temperatures.  That weather was expected about 2 p.m.  Instead of hiking ten miles, we decided to stop early at the Gooch Mountain Shelter.  This disrupted stuff, but not in a bad way.  I have plenty of food.  I need to do a better job eating.
So, the race to the shelter was on.  However, there were three 500-foot climbs to overcome.  My quads are exhausted, and there is little spring in my step on inclines.  I had to clear out of my mind how I used to crush this like it was nothing on the PCT.  It wasn’t true.  My up-game sucked on day 3 of the PCT, too.
It took awhile, but based on what I saw, my Presbyterian friend, Crow, will never climb all this in a day.  I never got to say goodbye, but that is the way of the trail.
I made it to the shelter at exactly 2 p.m., just as the rain started.  Jason and Wally were there to greet me.  I was early enough, to get a bottom spot on the floor for the night.
The shelter was lifted off the ground.  People set up there to stay out of the rain.  Once I was settled in, I was with my people.  20 dirty, stinky dudes, shoulder-to-shoulder, riding the storm out.
While stopping early is the smart thing to do, it puts a jump in the plan.  My next resupply point is at Neels Gap at 31.2.  However, to camp beyond 26.2 requires a bear canister, and I don’t have one.  Wally has offered to jam his full, but Jason doesn’t have one either.  We either have another short day tomorrow, or try to muscle a 14-plus marathon, including climbing up Blood Mountain.  The trouble is that there are 20+ trying for those limited spots.
The race is on!

Day 2: Southern Terminus / Gadfly

Starting Point: Campsite (-4.4)

Ending Point: Hawk Mountain Campsite (7.4)
Total Miles: 11.8 (4.4 Bonus Miles)
Steps: 32,486
Achievements: *** Southern Terminus ***
I woke up after a cold wet day to a clear sky.  I packed up my wet gear and made my way.  My quest was to make mile 7.4 so that I would have Internet for some remaining business back home.
I stopped at mile -5.1 to find some water, which I did.
I did not get hurt before actually getting on the AT.  I ran into a few people who were revaluating their life decisions.  The approach trail is a microcosm of the entire AT and no joke.
At the top we signed in and ran into Wally who was picked up with me by Ronnie Brown.  We enjoyed a nice laid back downward graded hike for four miles.
Eventually I met up with Crow, a fellow Presbyterian who was eating lunch.  He is older, hiking with his friend, and having a faith journey.  I certainly know about that.
I told Jason and Wally that I would catch up with them, and hiked with Crow.
Eventually, the downward graded trail ended and we were back to the climb.  It was a gentle climb, but my quads were having none of that.  They were tied in knots and no amount of electrolytes were going to make them happy.  This was a problem on the PCT early on as well.  I should have just rested, but I was on the clock.  I’d hike 20 streps and have to rest.  Fortunately, Crow up game is also weak.
I made it to Hawk Mountain Campsite, did my call, and had a big dinner.  A tough day, but a good one.  Tomorrow, we have rain again, but I have friends to hike it with.

Day 1 Foreplay / Long Time

Started: Amicalola Falls Visitor Center (-8.8)
Ended: Campsite (-4.4)
Steps: 16,135
Achievements: The hardest part is getting to the start 

It was a pretty rough night.  I tossed and turned.  I finally gave up and made myself a good breakfast.

When I hiked the PCT, I took the train to San Diego.  It was a great way to slow down and mentally prepare myself for trail time.  Your day goes much slower when you have to walk to get there.
When I checked in at the airport, they weighed my pack.  26.0 pounds.  That included some things that I will be carrying, like my treking poles.
Today, I climb a mountain right out of the gate.  Weather conditions are in the high 50’s with a 100% chance of rain.  Welcome to the AT!
The ride in was awesome.  I met two other hikers, Andy and Wally. They are roughly my age.  Andy is hiking a trail off the AT and Wally has a room in the lodge and will not start for a couple of days.
It was a late start for me.  I didn’t get going until noon-thirty.  It took a while for me to get organized for hiking in the rain.  I reached Amicalola Falls.  It was stunning.
I hiked until five.  It is only 4.4 miles, but it is a start.
Tomorrow, I’ll reach the AT proper.

The Calm Before the Storm…

I woke up extra early today to adjust for tomorrow.  I spent the time double checking my gear compared to my list on LighterPack.com.  It is good I did.  I discovered that I forgot to pack two items.  One is not a big deal.  The other was!

I have a pair of headphones I’m taking that was in my winter jacket.  Not a big deal.  I can pick up a pair very easily.

What I forgot to take was the bottle attachment for my Sawyer Squeeze so I can screw on one liter bottles.  Turning a Sawyer Squeeze into a gravity feed system saves me a ton of time on trail.  Purifying water becomes a passive event.  I took it off when I flushed and primed it a couple of weeks ago and failed to put it back on.  I could still use it, but it would be messy.

So, the lesson for today is use LighterPack to make a checklist while you are weighing each item.  Then when you are ready to go, as you pack, mark off each item.

With that exercise complete, I’ll just relax.  I have a very busy day tomorrow!

A Day’s Worth of Rations

Warning!  This contains some serious math!

Deciding how much food to carry is a major decision.  The rule of thumb is that you want to carry about two pounds of calorie dense food per day.  This is what I’m starting with:

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Food kCals Quantity Total
Clif Bar 250 2 500
Wafer Bar 215 2 430
Protein Bar 215 1 215
Salmon 70 1 70
Peanut Butter 190 2 380
Tortillas 150 3 450
MM’s 140 9 1260
Chili Mac 460 1 460
Summer Sausage 360 1 360
Almonds 164 1 164
Total: 4289
So how much will I burn per day?
First, I will burn a base of 2,500 kCals per day just staying alive.  If it is colder out or if the conditions are wet, I will burn more kCals just to maintain my body temperature.
Then I can expect to burn about 900 kCals per hour backpacking.  This is assuming a 20# or more pack with elevation changes.  This number will decrease as I get my hiker legs.  Once I’m in full trail shape, I will burn about 700 kCals per hour.  That is really important to remember.  Once I get my hiker legs, I will burn 200 less kCals per hour.
My very first day of the trail is a 9.0 mile hike to the Springer Mountain Shelter.  Assuming I can maintain 2 mph, it will take me 4.5 hours to get to the top of the mountain and I will burn 4,050 kCals, or 6,550 total kCals.
That is a 2,500 kCal deficit for the day, which is not sustainable.
How will I make up for the deficit?

Fortunately, I have an additional “food bag”, my fat reserves to make up the difference.  The rule of thumb is that you can burn 30 calories per pound of body fat before you start burning muscle.  I want to avoid burning muscle at all costs.  The hard part of all this is calculating how many pounds of fat my “dad bod” is carrying.  I have been weight lifting three times a week for the past five years.  I’m stronger than I have ever been. My guess is that I have about 40 pounds to burn.  So, 40# @ 30 kCals is 1,200 total kCals.
Burning that fat is like burning a candle however.  I cannot do it forever.  4289 + 1200 = 5489 kCals.
That doesn’t add up?

You are correct.  I still have a 1,000 kCals deficit at the beginning.  I will probably burn some muscle along with the fat until I get to my full hiking capability.  I’ll need to find some additional reserves.
The first place is my liver.  Your liver is the only organ that gives up its reserves.  When you work out and are completely exhausted and all of a sudden you feel that burst of energy commonly called your “second wind”?  That is your liver.
Here is the deal, it can only do it once.  Once you burn that, you “hit the wall”.   You cannot take another step.  On the PCT, coming out of from under the I-10 in Southern California, I was absolutely crushed by the heat.  I was drinking too much water and I was completely full.  Unable to move, I sat and ate nearly a day’s worth of food.  I knew that it meant that I didn’t have enough to get to Big Bear Lake.  My hiking partner, Fish Tank also ran out of food.  Fortunately, we ran into Little John.  He was carrying too much food and he gave me a black bean and angel hair pasta.  It was enough for us to bail out early and hitch into town.  Fish Tank and I consumed an entire large pizza each!
Having learned my lesson, I carried one of the meals that Little John gave me the entire rest of the PCT.  It was the backup reserve meal.  I’m doing the same thing this time.  What I have is a dehydrated chicken breast and some instant mash potatoes.  I’ve enhanced the potatoes with two tablespoons of dehydrated butter.  I also have a small bag of dehydrated butter to add to things.  That will give me an emergency 800 calories.
The other thing I will have is way more trail angels!  Each one of those angels will be passing out food.  I will thank them.  That is one of the great advantages of the AT over the PCT.  There will simply be more people there.
How long will it take for you to get your hiker legs?

Based upon my time on the PCT, not very long.  Once I reach that point, I’ll burn just 700 kCals per hour or less.  I’ll still have a calories deficit, but I’ll loose about two pounds per week, or just a good healthy weight loss diet.  I just have to get there.  I suspect by mile 200, my legs will be in full shape.  On the PCT, it wasn’t until about mile 350 until I was in good shape.
Once I reach that point, then I’ll hover around there, slowing burning fat while hopefully keeping my muscle mass.  Once I get closer to the end, I’ll need to add calories, but I’ll worry about that once I get there.