Day 2: Southern Terminus / Gadfly

Starting Point: Campsite (-4.4)

Ending Point: Hawk Mountain Campsite (7.4)
Total Miles: 11.8 (4.4 Bonus Miles)
Steps: 32,486
Achievements: *** Southern Terminus ***
I woke up after a cold wet day to a clear sky.  I packed up my wet gear and made my way.  My quest was to make mile 7.4 so that I would have Internet for some remaining business back home.
I stopped at mile -5.1 to find some water, which I did.
I did not get hurt before actually getting on the AT.  I ran into a few people who were revaluating their life decisions.  The approach trail is a microcosm of the entire AT and no joke.
At the top we signed in and ran into Wally who was picked up with me by Ronnie Brown.  We enjoyed a nice laid back downward graded hike for four miles.
Eventually I met up with Crow, a fellow Presbyterian who was eating lunch.  He is older, hiking with his friend, and having a faith journey.  I certainly know about that.
I told Jason and Wally that I would catch up with them, and hiked with Crow.
Eventually, the downward graded trail ended and we were back to the climb.  It was a gentle climb, but my quads were having none of that.  They were tied in knots and no amount of electrolytes were going to make them happy.  This was a problem on the PCT early on as well.  I should have just rested, but I was on the clock.  I’d hike 20 streps and have to rest.  Fortunately, Crow up game is also weak.
I made it to Hawk Mountain Campsite, did my call, and had a big dinner.  A tough day, but a good one.  Tomorrow, we have rain again, but I have friends to hike it with.

Day 1 Foreplay / Long Time

Started: Amicalola Falls Visitor Center (-8.8)
Ended: Campsite (-4.4)
Steps: 16,135
Achievements: The hardest part is getting to the start 

It was a pretty rough night.  I tossed and turned.  I finally gave up and made myself a good breakfast.

When I hiked the PCT, I took the train to San Diego.  It was a great way to slow down and mentally prepare myself for trail time.  Your day goes much slower when you have to walk to get there.
When I checked in at the airport, they weighed my pack.  26.0 pounds.  That included some things that I will be carrying, like my treking poles.
Today, I climb a mountain right out of the gate.  Weather conditions are in the high 50’s with a 100% chance of rain.  Welcome to the AT!
The ride in was awesome.  I met two other hikers, Andy and Wally. They are roughly my age.  Andy is hiking a trail off the AT and Wally has a room in the lodge and will not start for a couple of days.
It was a late start for me.  I didn’t get going until noon-thirty.  It took a while for me to get organized for hiking in the rain.  I reached Amicalola Falls.  It was stunning.
I hiked until five.  It is only 4.4 miles, but it is a start.
Tomorrow, I’ll reach the AT proper.

The Calm Before the Storm…

I woke up extra early today to adjust for tomorrow.  I spent the time double checking my gear compared to my list on LighterPack.com.  It is good I did.  I discovered that I forgot to pack two items.  One is not a big deal.  The other was!

I have a pair of headphones I’m taking that was in my winter jacket.  Not a big deal.  I can pick up a pair very easily.

What I forgot to take was the bottle attachment for my Sawyer Squeeze so I can screw on one liter bottles.  Turning a Sawyer Squeeze into a gravity feed system saves me a ton of time on trail.  Purifying water becomes a passive event.  I took it off when I flushed and primed it a couple of weeks ago and failed to put it back on.  I could still use it, but it would be messy.

So, the lesson for today is use LighterPack to make a checklist while you are weighing each item.  Then when you are ready to go, as you pack, mark off each item.

With that exercise complete, I’ll just relax.  I have a very busy day tomorrow!

A Day’s Worth of Rations

Warning!  This contains some serious math!

Deciding how much food to carry is a major decision.  The rule of thumb is that you want to carry about two pounds of calorie dense food per day.  This is what I’m starting with:

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Food kCals Quantity Total
Clif Bar 250 2 500
Wafer Bar 215 2 430
Protein Bar 215 1 215
Salmon 70 1 70
Peanut Butter 190 2 380
Tortillas 150 3 450
MM’s 140 9 1260
Chili Mac 460 1 460
Summer Sausage 360 1 360
Almonds 164 1 164
Total: 4289
So how much will I burn per day?
First, I will burn a base of 2,500 kCals per day just staying alive.  If it is colder out or if the conditions are wet, I will burn more kCals just to maintain my body temperature.
Then I can expect to burn about 900 kCals per hour backpacking.  This is assuming a 20# or more pack with elevation changes.  This number will decrease as I get my hiker legs.  Once I’m in full trail shape, I will burn about 700 kCals per hour.  That is really important to remember.  Once I get my hiker legs, I will burn 200 less kCals per hour.
My very first day of the trail is a 9.0 mile hike to the Springer Mountain Shelter.  Assuming I can maintain 2 mph, it will take me 4.5 hours to get to the top of the mountain and I will burn 4,050 kCals, or 6,550 total kCals.
That is a 2,500 kCal deficit for the day, which is not sustainable.
How will I make up for the deficit?

Fortunately, I have an additional “food bag”, my fat reserves to make up the difference.  The rule of thumb is that you can burn 30 calories per pound of body fat before you start burning muscle.  I want to avoid burning muscle at all costs.  The hard part of all this is calculating how many pounds of fat my “dad bod” is carrying.  I have been weight lifting three times a week for the past five years.  I’m stronger than I have ever been. My guess is that I have about 40 pounds to burn.  So, 40# @ 30 kCals is 1,200 total kCals.
Burning that fat is like burning a candle however.  I cannot do it forever.  4289 + 1200 = 5489 kCals.
That doesn’t add up?

You are correct.  I still have a 1,000 kCals deficit at the beginning.  I will probably burn some muscle along with the fat until I get to my full hiking capability.  I’ll need to find some additional reserves.
The first place is my liver.  Your liver is the only organ that gives up its reserves.  When you work out and are completely exhausted and all of a sudden you feel that burst of energy commonly called your “second wind”?  That is your liver.
Here is the deal, it can only do it once.  Once you burn that, you “hit the wall”.   You cannot take another step.  On the PCT, coming out of from under the I-10 in Southern California, I was absolutely crushed by the heat.  I was drinking too much water and I was completely full.  Unable to move, I sat and ate nearly a day’s worth of food.  I knew that it meant that I didn’t have enough to get to Big Bear Lake.  My hiking partner, Fish Tank also ran out of food.  Fortunately, we ran into Little John.  He was carrying too much food and he gave me a black bean and angel hair pasta.  It was enough for us to bail out early and hitch into town.  Fish Tank and I consumed an entire large pizza each!
Having learned my lesson, I carried one of the meals that Little John gave me the entire rest of the PCT.  It was the backup reserve meal.  I’m doing the same thing this time.  What I have is a dehydrated chicken breast and some instant mash potatoes.  I’ve enhanced the potatoes with two tablespoons of dehydrated butter.  I also have a small bag of dehydrated butter to add to things.  That will give me an emergency 800 calories.
The other thing I will have is way more trail angels!  Each one of those angels will be passing out food.  I will thank them.  That is one of the great advantages of the AT over the PCT.  There will simply be more people there.
How long will it take for you to get your hiker legs?

Based upon my time on the PCT, not very long.  Once I reach that point, I’ll burn just 700 kCals per hour or less.  I’ll still have a calories deficit, but I’ll loose about two pounds per week, or just a good healthy weight loss diet.  I just have to get there.  I suspect by mile 200, my legs will be in full shape.  On the PCT, it wasn’t until about mile 350 until I was in good shape.
Once I reach that point, then I’ll hover around there, slowing burning fat while hopefully keeping my muscle mass.  Once I get closer to the end, I’ll need to add calories, but I’ll worry about that once I get there.

Kit Complete! Let’s Gooooo!!!!

Today I finalized my kit with a base weight of 13 pounds, 5.5 ounces.  This kit will handle temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  I loaded it up with two liters of water, a day’s worth of food, and a medium tank of fuel.  I barely noticed it.
With that, I need to send a box forward to Fontana Dam and order my hiking permit for the Smokies.  I’m ready to go!

T-Minus 8 Days!

My wife asked me this past weekend if I was getting excited.  I am leaving next week for a March 6th. start.  I told her that in all honesty, I haven’t had much time to think about it.  I’ve been focused on crossing off items on the task list.
I finished training my replacement at Calvary Presbyterian Church.  I originally came there to help them close.  I failed miserably.  My replacement is better suited to helping them generate revenue as a home for the arts in downtown Milwaukee.  Although it wasn’t necessarily my job, the congregation is healthy and growing.
At home, I’ve finished all the tasks my wife had requested.  The downstairs bathroom is remodeled.  Many other items have been fixed or refurnished.  She is most pleased.
I have finished applying for seminary and will be attending Louisville Presbyterian Theological Seminary this fall.  That gives me a deadline of Labor Day weekend to get this hike done.  That should be plenty of time.  I hike better if I have a deadline.  I need to complete a psychological examination.  Does quitting your job to hike 2197.4 miles indicate that I’m mentally unstable?  I don’t think so.  I’m happy to be lost in my thoughts.
I’m able to check the ten day forecast for Amicalola Falls State Park.  There was plenty of wailing and nashing of teeth over the amount of rain there would be March 1st., it should all be clear by my start date of March 6th.  Low 60’s during the day and high 30’s at night.  Perfect hiking and sleeping weather for me.
My flight is currently on time.  That is always a concern.
So, I spent some time going over my food situation.  I’ll be carrying 3.5 days worth of food at the start.  That means I’ll need to hike roughly 12 miles a day.  My wife and I did 9.5 in three hours on Saturday.  It included some Wisconsin up-and-down, which is by no means AT quality, but did include a 126 staircase.  I’ll write up more about my food in a upcoming article.
So, I’ll take it easy for the first couple of weeks until my hiker legs kick in.  No sense hurting myself at the start.
It is amazing the difference you feel for your second thru-hike.  I don’t have any anxiety this time around.  I trust my gear.  I know what I’m capable of doing.  Resupply is so much easier. Water is plentiful.  Soon I’ll be out there crushing miles and making smiles.

Trail Situation Report

We are getting closer and closer to my start date!  So, it is time to start reading up on trail conditions.  To assist me, I found a past hiker with the trail name of Ramdino who posts weekly on YouTube.  I hope that you check him out.  I signed up on his list of hikers, so you might hear my name mentioned.

Water

All water sources in listed on FarOut are flowing nicely all the way through the Smokey Mountains National Park.  The park starts at the Fontana Dam at mile 166.6 and ends at mile 239.2.  Unlike the PCT, water is readily available through almost all of the AT.  That in and of itself will significantly reduce my overall pack weight.  I’ll keep my water strategy.  Camel up by drinking a liter at a water source and carry a liter.  That should get me through ten miles.  My overall water carrying capacity will be 4.5 liters, two smart water bottles and a 2.5 Platypus dirty water bag.
That may seem like overkill, but if you have to hike to a water source, carrying enough water to cook is really nice.

Snow

There is snow up in the mountains as high as 18 inches.  I suspect that it will be melted by my March 6th starting date, but just to be sure, I’ve added my  Kahtoola MICROspikes to my gear list.  My wife and I hiked the Monches segment of the IAT on Saturday.  There was still plenty of snow and ice on the trail and I had no problem staying at my full hiking pace with them on.  They are also good for traction on mud.

I will be monitoring conditions.  They weight 13.1 ounces, but provide X-Mode traction in snow.  Better traction means fewer calories burned.  I can always return them after the Smokies.

Weather

It has been cold but manageable.  What I’m going to do for this hike is fly down wearing some Kirkland Jogging Pants.  Instead of tossing them when I change into my hiking clothes, I’m going to take them along.  I’m hiking the IAT in them with a pair of 32 Degree Heat base layer and I’m just fine.  I’ll have them for the evenings and if conditions are very cold at night.  Once it becomes warm, I’ll toss them.  After 200 miles or so, they won’t fit anymore anyways.
I’m a Wisconsinite.  We wear shorts once the weather is above freezing.  Once I’m walking, I’ll warm up.  It is extreme heat that I worry about.

Conclusion

I’ll be keeping an eye on the snow levels.  I have the gear to deal with it if need be and I can always send stuff home.
 

T-Minus 40 Days and Counting

I brought up my gear boxes from the basement and into the sunroom that has been converted into the Quartermaster’s Office as I’m now just forty days from the start of my attempt of the Appalachian Trail.  I have multiple stations set up.

The first station is for my gear.  I have a small scale and my tablet open to LighterPack.com.  I am not assembling a brand new kit.  Much of my gear from the PCT is still in excellent condition.  It pays to take care of you kit.  Nothing escapes the scale, even if I weighted it before.

To protect me on the PCT, my daughter gave me a Pokémon keychain to clip outside of my backpack.  She chose a Manaphy for me.  For those of you who are not Pokémon masters like my daughter, Manaphy is a water-type.  Julia felt that a water-type would be a good match for the first 700 miles of desert.  I would never go thirsty.  As I completed the PCT, this keychain has become a good luck charm.

The good news is that Manaphy has dropped .1 ounces in weight.  When I weighed it back in 2018, it was .6 ounces.  Today it is .5!  With that weight savings, I can afford to take a bandage!  Who am I kidding?  I’m five years older than my last 2,000 mile hike.  I’ll use that weight savings to carry more Ibuprofen!

My sawyer squeeze is also getting a checkup.  I bought a brand new one a long time ago.  Although I have not used it before, I find that running clean water through it before you leave means that all the air bubbles will be pushed out.  When I connect it for the first time on trail, it will work right away.  I have a 2.5 liter dirty water bag that has a loop in it for an easy gravity hang.  The 2.5 liter capacity allows me to gather enough water for dinner, cleanup and late night tea.

I’m still considering some gear swaps.  My headlamp is a Zebralight H52W.  It was great on the PCT.  It’s only downfall is that it requires a AA battery, which means I’m carrying a spare, which is extra weight.  I cannot remember if I even changed batteries on the PCT.  I avoid night hiking unless I absolutely have to, so I used it sparingly.  I have also considered dropping from a 20,000 mAh power bank to a 10,000 mAh.  That would save me some weight.  Mostly all minor changes.

The next station is for my food.  My first resupply is Neels Gap Mountain Crossing at mile 31.  It is a full service resupply point and it is right on trail.  I just need enough food to get there.  I will be dropped off at Amicalola Falls State Park which is 8.8 miles south of the Southern Terminus, so I’ll need an extra days worth of food.  The approach trail is going to be tough from the get go.  It is a 3,000+ foot climb over eight miles.  Should be fun!

It is funny.  When I finally reached the Northern Terminus of the PCT, I was rewarded with an 8 mile hike to Manning Park and civilization.  For the AT, I’m rewarded with bonus miles right from the get-go.

I am hoping that everything runs smoothly, but if my flight is delayed for some reason, I’ll have a day’s worth of food.  So, if I arrive too late to hike to the start on March 6th, I’ll just camp at Amicalola Falls State Park and start the next day.

I also need to ship a box to Fontana Dam, NC at mile 164.  As I understand it, the resupply options there are weak, so I’ll pack five days of food, which is more than enough to get to Gatlinburg at mile 208.  So, before I leave, I’ll ship a box there.  I will resupply on trail the rest of the way.

My second resupply box isn’t needed until Harper’s Ferry at mile 1026.  I’ll have time to sort that out before I get there.

New Headlamp

 

Just as my last blog post is published, I receive an advertisement from zPacks.  They have a new flashlight / headlamp that meets all my requirements.  It is the A5 Hat Clip Flashlight, a lightweight flashlight with a clip that allows it to be used as a headlamp.  It also has a lantern mode.  It has a USB-C port for charging, so I do not need any different cables.  More importantly, it weighs just .8 ounces and costs just $36.  My Zebralight H52W weighs 2.9 ounces and a spare AA battery is .7 ounces.  That is a 2.8 ounce weight savings for not much money.  Needless to say, I bought it immediately.

Ready!!!

With the kit locked down, now it is time to lock down a starting date and transportation.  For the Pacific Crest Trail I used Guthooks and Yogi’s PCT Handbook.  For the Appalachian Trail, I’ll use Guthooks (now renamed FarOut) and AWOL’s AT Guide.
I cannot start until sometime after March 4th.  The earlier the better, however.  Tickets to Atlanta airport are quite reasonable.  I found flights for less than $200.  I will need to check in my backpack, however.  (Remember when that was free?)  My pocket knife that is smaller than my pinky and my trekking poles cannot be in a carry-on bag.
I’m also using Reddit this time.  The reviews for Ron’s Appalachian Trail Shuttle were excellent.  I texted him.  $140 from the airport, plus he’ll sell me iso-butane fuel as I cannot take that on the plane.  He is very knowledgeable, which is always helpful. While this isn’t my first rodeo, I really know nothing about the AT.
So, I’m going to finish up looking at flights and get that locked down.  Then I’ll Venmo Ron for the transportation and I’ll be good to go.
Update 1

I was able to snag a flight to Atlanta for just $98!  My start date is March 6th.  It is a very early flight, but I will be in Atlanta before 9:00 a.m.  I also figured out that I’d rather start at Amicalola Falls instead of the Southern Terminus.  That will give me the full AT experience and cuts down my shuttle cost to $120.  He’ll have a medium iso-butane canister for me, so I’ll be ready to go.  I’ll check in at the visitor’s center and get my tag.  Then I’ll start making my way.
Ron asked me if I had a trail name.  I said that I was given the name Fine Young Buck, but chose to only use Young Buck unless I reached the finish.  Standing before the Northern Terminus between the United States and Canada, I accepted my full trail name.  I also said the name was a fitting joke as I was in my 50’s.  He asked if I would keep it.  I said that I would let the trail decide that.  I sent him my picture at the end of the PCT and he felt I should keep it.
I might.  However, when I take those first steps, I’ll just be JP.