California Fire Permit Issued

I knocked off the second of three permits this morning, the California Fire Permit.  This allows me to light a campfire and use my stove in California.  It was simple and free.  You go to the site, watch a video, take a quiz and they give you a link with your permit.  It is good for the year issued, so I had to wait until after January 1st to get it.

That leaves just the Canadian Entry Permit.  Getting that done requires me to gather and scan some documentation, but I do not expect any issues as I do not have a criminal history.  I hope to have that done by next week.

Training Update

The combination of the holidays and sub-zero temperatures have slowed my training a bit. I bought some micro-spikes at Costco for $9.99 and I did some hiking in the snow last week and I hope to do more. They are great for the urban trail, but they would last about ten minutes on the PCT.  They are very light weight, however.  When it gets below zero with a wind chill of -25, it is best to stay inside.  It is supposed to warm up next week.

With three months to go, I have worked with a trainer and put together a more aggressive workout program that I will start January 1st.  With my legs tested with back-to-back 18 mile hikes, I can focus more on my core to help improve my endurance.

I still need to get my permits.  I need to get a box together for Warner Springs, one of the only towns I’ll send a box.  I haven’t thought about what I’m going to wear other than my base layers.  All my gear is purchased.  In theory, I could leave tomorrow.

So, I wait…

State of the Trail – December

While it is way too early to be sure, there are some indications that the PCT is going to be dry for 2018.  That is good and bad.  The PCT Class of 2017 struggled with heavy snow in the Sierra Mountains.  Many skipped, flipped or quit.  It looks like 2018 will not be like that.  In fact, 2018 might be the year of the forest fire.

There is a total fire ban in the Angeles National Forest which affects the PCT.  If it is still in force by April, miles 345 to 510 will require me to go completely stoveless.  That is a pretty big section starting from Cajon Pass all the way to Hikertown.

This is a good reason why I’ve decided to resupply as I go.  I’d hate to have shipped myself all these dinners that require heat, only to be unable to cook them.

The question I’m asking now is should I give up coffee completely?  If I do, do I do it before I leave or do I piss off the people I love at home?

 

Trail Orthodoxy

What does it mean to successful hike the Pacific Crest Trail in one season?  Is that even possible?

The orthodox answer is to hike straight from Campo, California to Manning Park, British Columbia with footprints on the trail the whole way.  When I leave the trail, I always return to the exact point that I left.  I always hike the PCT and never deviate from it.

Unfortunately, to hike the actual 2650.1 miles is impossible.  There are sections of the trail that are closed and will remain closed.  For example, a fire near Idyllwild, California in 2013 damaged the trail.  By order, the trail is closed between miles 168.6 and 177.3.  There is a section in Southern California that has been closed since 2013 to protect an endangered mountain yellow-legged frog.

The forest fires in Oregon and Washington have closed significant portions.  In many cases, there was no alternate route to take.  One simply skipped that part.  The heavy snow in the Sierra Mountains in 2017 forced a majority of hikers to skip that section, continue north, and return later in the season when it was safer to hike.

To make matters more complicated, there are trails that split off the PCT that are ascetically more pleasing than the trail proper.  There is an alternative route that allows you to walk the rim of Crater Lake.  Do I skip that?

Finally, there are some additional alternative routes to avoid dangerous sections.  For example, there is an alternate road hike between miles 187 and 191 that allows me to avoid hiking Fuller Ridge during heavy snow and high winds.

So, what am I going to do?

My hike is my hike.  The trail is what is presented to me when I get there.  If a section is closed, but there is an official alternate route, and that route is safe, I will take that alternate.  I will monitor the weather when I’m in town.  If conditions are dangerous, I’ll stay in town an extra day or two.  Despite my best efforts, if a commonly unsafe section like Fuller Ridge is dangerous when I physically walk there, I’ll take the alternate.  If snow conditions in the Sierra Mountains are the same in 2018 as they were in 2017, I will consider flip-flopping.

I may be crazy, but I do not have a death wish.

That leaves the ascetically pleasing alternates.  I may have only this once chance to do this hike.  I will choose the best quality over orthodoxy.  I’m going to hike the rim of Crater Lake.  I’m going to see the best there is to see.

What I won’t do is skip a section because it is too hard.  If I have to flip-flop, but the clock runs out, I will not consider it complete until I hike that section.  However, if a section is closed, I’ll consider that section as not part of the trail.  I’m not going to wait until the endangered section is reopened to claim victory.

Does this mean that I will hike 2650.1 miles?  No probably not.  I’ll be short a few.  Will I say I completed it?  If I skip a section with the intention of returning, but do not return because I ran out of time?  No.  Otherwise yes.

But, you didn’t hike all 2650.1 miles!!!  How can you say you hiked the PCT if you didn’t hike all 2650.1 miles!?!

Sometimes in life you just have to say close enough.  Get over it.

 

 

Resupply Strategy in a Nutshell (as I understand it…)

The logistics of hiking the PCT are complicated. Fortunately, I’m not packing food for one really long hike. I’m really determining the logistics of a series of three-to-five day hikes. Just thirty of them in a row! Regardless, after a couple of days in the wild, I will reach a town. Some of them will be full-service. It will have everything I need including a gear store. Some of them will have just a gas station and a mini mart. Some of them will have no resupply options at all. Nearly the entire State of Washington has no resupply options.

Now, I could buy all my food in bulk at home and mail boxes to each resupply point. In theory, this would same me money, because I could buy in bulk. Costco is your friend The problem with this method is that eventually you will get tired of eating the same thing over and over again. Also, what do you do if you don’t finish?

Buying local is a better solution. However, not every town has a grocery store. Sometimes it is just a gas station. I’m not sure how many calories there are in a urinal mint.

So, I have been spending hours researching each and every town. I’m also using the Halfmile Anywhere 2017 Survey as a guide.  Based upon that survey there are thirteen towns were I will need to ship a box.  They are the following locations:

  1. Warner Springs (Desert)
  2. Kennedy Meadows South (Sierra)
  3. Kennedy Meadows North (NorCal)
  4. Sierra City (NorCal)
  5. Belden (NorCal)
  6. Crater Lake/Mazama (Oregon)
  7. Shelter Cove (Oregon)
  8. Timberline Lodge (Oregon)
  9. Trout Lake (Washington)
  10. White Pass (Washington)
  11. Snoqualmie Pass (Washington)
  12. Stevens Pass/Skykomish (Washington)
  13. Stehekin (Washington)

It turns out that my very first resupply point after about five days is one of the towns on the list — Warner Springs.  So, before I leave, I will ship a single box to Warner Springs.  That box will have four-days of food in it.  That may be overkill, because will stop at the Paradise Cafe for lunch and get a burger.  It is a rite of passage on the trail.

For Kennedy Meadows South (Yes, there are two towns with the same name in California), I will do a gear swap.  Before I can enter the Sierra Mountains, I will need a bear canister, an ice axe, micro-spikes for my shoes and a warmer base layer.  I will keep this heavier gear only as long as I need it.

For the Northern California towns, I will ship boxes myself.  I will ship a box from Tuolumne Meadows to Kennedy Meadows North.  From South Lake Tahoe, I will ship a box to Sierra City and Belden.

For Oregon I will use a similar strategy.  From Ashland, I will ship a box to Mazama and Shelter Cove.  From Bend, I will ship a box to Timberline Lodge.

That leaves Washington.  There are not many options there.  The most likely strategy there is full resupplies from home.  I’ll worry about that when I get there.

Using this strategy, I only have to pack one box before I leave.  That makes this trip much simpler.

Change in Footwear

I was completely settled on the Altra Lone Peak 3.0 trail shoes for my hike, but Altra has upgraded them to 3.5.  I tried ordering version 3.0 on-line, but they are discontinued.  So, I’ve ordered a version 3.5 and I have to say they are an improvement.

From a size and foot feel, they are the same.  What has changed is that there are now four points to connect your gaiters, they have improved the outer structure by reinforcing the skeleton, and they changed the ventilating fabric.

My Dirty Girl gaiters only have two connecting points, so the four point gaiter doesn’t help me.  The outer structure improvement will hopefully improve durability.  The biggest complaint about them on the trail is that you go through four or five pairs.  I didn’t have any issues like that with my 3.0’s and they have a good 400 miles on them.

The fabric change might be a big deal.  They are now using a fabric with smaller pores.  This should reduce the amount of sand and dust that gets in while still allowing the shoes to breathe.  Reducing the sand and dust will reduce one of the key ingredients to blisters.  On my six-day shakedown, my feet were always wet and muddy.  The 3.0 shoe did a great job of drying itself off as I walked.  We’ll see if the 3.5 version does just as well.

Skills, I Got Some

Last year was a pretty tough year for the PCT.  There were a number of emergency rescues on the trail and unfortunately a few thru-hikers died.  That has led to a discussion on survival skills.  One of the side effects of ultra-light hiking is that you do not need to be a manly mass of muscle to attempt it.  I certainly could not do it if I took my camping gear instead of my light weight backpacking gear.

So, what skills do I have verses what skills am I lacking?

As a small-town kid from Wisconsin, I spent much of my time outside.  I lit fires.  I made shelters.  I hunted and fished.  I’ve camped in the snow.  I hiked a good portion of the Ice Age Trail as well as the Superior Trail and the Boundary Waters.

As a young man, I was in the Boy Scouts until I was 16.  While I wasn’t an Eagle Scout, I had quite a few critical merit badges for this hike like, camping, first aid, hiking, life saving, weather and wilderness survival.  I still know my knots.  I can read a map and use a compass.

After high school, instead of going to college right away, I joined the Navy and was a Sonar Operator on the P-3 Orion aircraft.  Before I could hunt submarines, I needed to complete the training program which included Aircrew Candidate School and SERE school.  I also was Red Cross trauma first aid and CPR qualified, although it has been a long time since I renewed my certifications.

So, I have a good base of survival skills for this hike.  I’m also modest enough that I’ll avoid endangering myself too much.  I won’t walk the knife’s edge and take a selfie at the same time.  I won’t make a water crossing alone.  I’m modest enough to wait for others.

However, I’m still missing a few skills, some of which I will not be able to learn here.

The Desert

While many of my classmates are concerned about the snow, I’m more concerned about the desert.  I generally get 5 miles per liter of water when it is hot.  For the 43 mile stretch without a reliable water source, that means I’m going to have to carry about 10 liters if all I can get is 5 miles per liter.

The Sierra Mountains

I will have little training for high altitude backpacking.  It is a concern of mine that I might push myself too hard at 10,000 feet.  The thought of hiking one mile-per-hour is kind of scary.  I have watched videos on self-arrest, and I will take an ice-axe, but I have never done it.

Foot Care

The one part of my body I’m going to push the most is my feet.  I am hopeful that three years of aggressive hiking means my feet are strong enough to handle this, I feel like I do not know enough.  I’ve bought a book on foot care and I’ve been following what I have learned there by taping my toes and feet, but if anything is going to fail, it is my feet.

Moving Forward

I am in the process of updating my skills.  Having done two shakedown backpacking trips has given me quite a bit of confidence with my gear and what I’m capable to doing. I’m renewing my first aid and CPR certifications.  I’m learning how to be a better photographer.

For the desert, I’m going to take advantage of night hiking and sleeping during the day.  If I get up before the sun rises, take a siesta when it gets too hot, and hike until dark, I should still be able to get my miles in while avoiding the worst of the heat.

I’m not sure what I’m going to do about the Sierra Mountains.  I’ve considered buying a high altitude mask and start hiking with it, but they are expensive and probably overkill.  As water is plentiful, packing more food and taking my time is probably my best strategy.  Honestly, with 800 miles under my belt by then, my heart, legs and lungs should be very efficient.

I’ve watched videos on self arrest.  I have not found any courses here, so I’ll have to practice when I get there.

Feet?  Tape and stretching, tape and stretching.

Do I know enough to go?  Yes.  Do I know all I need to know? No.  What I don’t know, can I learn it when I get there?  Yes.

Some Thoughts on Water

My very first day of hiking on the PCT will be in an arid desert. There is water creek at mile 4.4 and possible water at mile 6.0. After that, there is no water until after a huge climb into Lake Merino at mile 21. Water is something I will have to prepare before I can drink it.

On the different Facebook pages for the 2018 hikers, there have been a number of discussion on which tool to use. I chose the best in class Sawyer Squeeze. I ordered my before I did my first training hike on the IAT in Taylor County. When it first arrived, I gathered some Milwaukee River water and ran it through it. It worked great.

However, I discovered a major limitation on my first shakedown. At my very first water stop, the source I found had quite a bit of stuff floating in it. To save weight, I did not bring anything to screen the water, nor the method to flush it. My Sawyer was degraded almost immediately. It took nearly 15 minutes to filter a liter. My initial attempts to flush it were unsuccessful.

On my second hike, I had the means of properly flushing it and it worked great.  I’ve seen some videos on using the sport cap from a Smart Water Bottle to flush the filter, but for now, I’ll bring the syringe.  I also designed a simple contraption to filter the bigger chunks before I start filtering.  I cut the top off a water bottle and using a bandana, I can significantly reduce the larger solid deposits in the water.  The bandana ties to my backpack.  The water bottle is slightly larger than a smart water bottle, to it takes no room in my pack and the extra weight is essentially nothing.

The big decision I have been mulling over is whether to take a backup method of purifying water.  The most likely way my Squeeze would fail is if it freezes.  I’ve slept with it in my pocket on freezing nights.  I have Aqua Mira drops as a backup.  However, they weigh three ounces.  As of now, I’ve decided to not take a backup.  Three ounces is three ounces.  In a worst case scenario, I would just drink the water.

Going on a Train Ride

I checked off another box on the logistics checklist. How am I going to get to San Diego? I am going to take a train. Taking the train is the perfect choice because it is going to force me to slow down. Flying there takes four hours or so. Taking a train takes two days!

So, I’ll board an Amtrak in Milwaukee, switch in Chicago, and relax and meditate until I reach San Diego. I also notified Scout and Frodo, so that on April 5th, I will look out for a van with a yellow pom-pom in the window. At their home I’ll switch everything over and try to go to sleep. I will fail to do so.

Then, in the wee hours of the morning on the 6th, I’ll pack up my gear and they will take me to the Southern Terminus. Pictures will be taken. Once the goodbyes are done, I will face north and take that first step. In my pack will be five days of food, a fresh canister of fuel and four to six liters of water depending upon conditions.

When I reach Hauser Canyon which is slightly more than 15 miles up trail, I will decide whether to camp there or continue the last five miles to Lake Morena and celebrate with dinner at the Oak Shore Grocery. There is no water at Hauser Canyon, so six liters seems about right.

That is it.  That is the plan.  Beyond that is all preparation.

On Jargon

I borrowed much of this from the blog Zenlightened Voyager.  Her stories as she traveled the PCT were amazing. 

There is a language thru-hikers use and I suspect once I’m immersed on it, I will talk like it, too. 
Base Weight is the total weight of everything you are taking, minus that which you will consume and minus that which you wear.  The basic principle is that the less you carry the lighter the pack.  The lighter the pack, the faster and longer you can hike.  The faster and longer you can hike, the less food and water you will need.  The less food and water you need, the lighter the pack.

The quest to lighten the load must also be balanced by comfort and safety.  I could save a ton of weight if I didn’t carry a sleeping bag and pad.  However, I would not get much sleep which would make my hike miserable. 

Bear Boxes are lockable bear proof boxes where you store anything that might attract a bear. 
Bear Canisters are portable containers used to store your food and other items that might attract a bear.  They are designed to be difficult to open unless you have opposable thumbs.  There are sections of the PCT where I am required to carry one.  They are heavy so no one wants to carry one for longer than required, but I can be fined for not using one. 
Bonus Miles are any extra miles that I have to hike that do not get me closer to my goal.  These include walking to town, to water sources, to find good places to camp, or to a private place to do my business.  The worst kind of bonus miles are the miles I will hike in the wrong direction because I left something behind or I went the wrong way. 
Bounce Boxes are packages that you continually mail to yourself as you travel along the trail.  This box can include extra supplies, medications, town clothes, maps and the like.  I will not be using a bounce box as I have a family at home that will help keep me supplied. 
The Bubble is the natural coagulation of thru-hikers.  It is also commonly called the Herd.  While I’m hiking alone, I will be hiking with a whole bunch of different people doing the same thing as me. 
A Cache is supplies hidden on the trail which you use to resupply.  It is an archaic method of thru-hiking.  Non-hikers often establish caches to help hikers complete their journey, and these supply points make the day for hikers.  A wonderful cache to run into is a water cache in a long stretch of desert.  The first rule of caches is to not depend upon them. 
To Camel Up is to drink as much water as you can when you are at a water source so that you do not have to carry extra water.  
To Camel water is to carry more water than you need between water sources.  In general, on a warm day, I need one liter of water per five miles.  If I’m going ten miles between water sources, I do not need to carry four liters of water, unless I’m going to camp somewhere in between water sources for the night. 
Cat Holes are holes that you dig for the purposes of defecation.  They should be 4-6 inches wide, 8 inches deep and at least 200 feet from water sources, the trail and likely campsites.  Toilet Paper and wet wipes are not buried in the cat hole.  Leave No Trace (LNT) says that you take anything that will not rapidly decompose out with the rest of your garbage. 
To Cowboy Camp is to sleep outside without a tent.  You can only do this if both the weather and insects will not keep you awake.  Mosquitoes prevent me from cowboy camping in Wisconsin.  The floor separates from my tent so that I can use it to cowboy camp in the desert. 
To Dry Camp is to camp away from a water source.  While it requires you to carry extra water, it does allow you to hike later when it is cooler.  The common camping sites are often the home to rodents due to food being left behind.  Rodents can badly damage tents, backpacks, and other equipment in their quest for nourishment.  Camping at a dry camp is a strategy to avoid that damage. 
Escape Velocity is the amount of will power and determination necessary to leave the  comforts of a town with a warm, soft bed, easy food, a shower and clean clothes.  The longer the hike, the harder it is to achieve escape velocity. 
To Flip-Flop is a strategy used to complete the trail where you skip a section with a plan to hike it later.  In 2017, the snow was so high in the Sierra Mountains that many people skipped them when they first got there and returned after they reached the Northern Terminus. 
A Gram Weenie is someone is so concerned about reducing their base weight that they either spend a ton of money for little benefit or they become Stupid Light and sacrifice comfort and safety for a lighter pack. 
A Hiker Box is a location in town where hikers leave food and gear for others to use.  You can make some amazing finds at the local hiker box and some courageous hikers survive by eating exclusively from food they find there.  As I have saved for twenty years for this hike, I will be more a supplier of hiker boxes than a connoisseur. 
Hiker / Trail Family is the group of people your end up hiking with for a long portion of the trail.  I expect to run into some people who hike about as fast and as far per day as I hike.  A friendship will be made and we will work together to complete the hike.  We will eat together, share a hotel room, and in general watch out for each other. 
Hiker Funk is the unique odor of a thru-hiker.  Hike for five days in the same pair of shorts with no deodorant and no laundry service and you are going to smell.  Two centuries ago, this smell was normal.  Now, it is offensive. 
Hiker Hunger is a uncontrollable hunger.  As I will burn over 4,000 calories a day but only take in 3,000, I will be constantly hungry.  When I get to town, I will do my best to make up for those lost calories.  However, as I hike, will be constantly hungry.  In my experiences backpack in the past, I have never been hiking so long that I’ve felt this level of hunger. 
Hiker Hobble is a zombie like walk that thru-hikers have after a rest.  While I’ve never had Hiker Hunger, as I train, I often have Hiker Hobble. 
Hiker / Trail Legs are legs capable of hiking eight to ten hours or more a day while wearing a twenty pound pack.  While the best way to get hiker legs on the PCT is to hike the PCT, that is not possible for me.  Instead, I have spent the past two years training so that the time it takes for me to get my trail legs is short. 
Hiker Midnight is around 9 p.m.  Out of respect to other hikers, proper etiquette is to be quiet after 9 p.m. so that everyone can get some sleep. 
Hiker Trash is a derogatory term for hikers which hikers have taken as their own.  They travel in a Hiker Family, smell with a Hiker Funk and walk in town with a Hiker Hobble. 
Hike Your Own Hike (HYOH) is an important principle of hiking.  While I expect to be in a Hiker Family, my hike is my own.  If I hike with someone for a week at a time and they are no longer there, they are hiking their own hike. 
Jump Box is my own term.  While I won’t use a Bounce Box, there will be locations on the hike where I will mail a box with food ahead for resupply.  I will do this if I’m in a town with full services and my next town only has a convenience store. 
Local Resupply is to purchase food and other consumables locally in the town after completing a section.  The primary advantage to local resupply is that it allows you to change your diet based upon what you are in the mood for at that moment.  One disadvantage is that not every town has good options for local resupply or the costs of common hiking food is high. 
A Mail Drop is a method of resupply where a box is mailed to a post office as general delivery so that when the hiker gets there, they can pick it up.  My strategy will consist of a combination of mail drops and Local Resupply. 

NoBo / Northbound is a hiker who hikes north from Campo, California to Manning Park, British Columbia.  There are advantages to hiking north.  The window to complete the hike is longer.  There are more people hiking with you.  Finally, NoBo hikers have an easier time getting their hiker legs going north as the start of the trail can be flat. 
A Nero is a day where you hike nearly no miles.  Usually they happen when you are just outside a town. 
To Posthole is to follow in the footsteps of another hiker across a snow covered trail.  As these holes might been a couple of feet deep, postholing is slow and tiring process. 
Ride Bride is a female hiker who pairs up with a male hiker.  In return for protection, the female hiker helps hitchhike rides into towns where you can resupply.  As I’m going to smell and look like hell, drivers might be afraid to pick me up.  I wouldn’t blame them.  Hopefully, I will end up in a Hiker Family with a couple of female hikers to help get us rides into town. 
A Section Hiker is someone who is hiking a part of the hike, but not the whole hike at once.  Up to this point, I have only ever been a section hiker. 
To Slack Pack is to hike a section of the hike without all my gear.  This can only be done if there is someone up ahead waiting for you with all your gear. 
SoBo is a south bound hiker.  About ten percent of all hikers choose to hike from Canada to Mexico.  The advantage of hiking south is that you do not have all the drama of the herd.  However, the window is smaller and you have to be in much better shape to start. 
A Trail Angel is an amazingly kind person who provides acts of kindness to hikers simply because they care.  What they provide is… 
Trail Magic.  Trail magic is anything wonderful that happens on the trail.  It might come in the form of food, lodging, maintaining a water cache, or a ride into town. 
A tradition of hiking a major trail is earning a Trail Name.  You do give yourself your own trail name.  It must be given to you by another thru-hiker.  However, you can choose not to accept a trail name given to you by someone.  It should reflect your personality and your individual quirks.  Older hikers often provide their own trail name.  I will let the trail provide me my name. 
The Triple Crown is someone who completes the three U.S. long-distance trails, the Appalachian, the Pacific Crest and the Continental Divide trails.  As my wife and I plan in the future to hike the AT together, if I am successful in completing the PCT, it is possible that would attempt the CDT. One step at a time. I have to finish the PCT first. 
Vitamin I is a slang term for Ibuprofen.  Ibuprofen is an excellent pain-killer, and is used liberally to make the hike more comfortable. As a side sleeper, I am more likely to take Vitamin I before bed so that my hips are not sore in the middle the night. 
The Vortex is an invisible gravity well around civilization formed by the comforts of a warm soft bed, easy access for good food and clean water, a shower and clean laundry. 
A Zero is a day when no trail miles are walked.  They are a necessary part of the hike as hiking every day takes a serious toll on the body.  Zeros are times to resupply, call home, do laundry, replace broken or worn out gear, and recover from injury.  Spending too many zeros will make it harder to escape the Vortex or use up too much time so that you end up unable to complete the hike due to snow conditions in Washington starting around October 1st.